| What engine? Valvoline VR1 20W-50 + Rislone is fairly common if it is an older high-performance Mopar big block. Oil Pressure Assessment 55 PSI cruising sounds solid and normal for this engine/oil combo. Big-block Mopars (383/413/426/440) often run 40-60+ PSI at cruise with 20W-50 racing oils like VR1, especially when hot. VR1 is a popular choice for flat-tappet or high-zinc needs in these engines and generally supports good pressure. Idle/hot pressure isn’t mentioned, but as long as it’s above ~10-15 PSI minimum (Chrysler spec is low, like 13 PSI at hot idle for many), the bottom end is likely getting adequate oil. Valve train noise persisting despite this points elsewhere. Likely Causes for the Noise • Lifter/pushrod/rocker issues: The aggressive cam and high-RPM design can amplify noise. Hydraulic lifters (common in many Wedge builds) can bleed down, stick, or have varnish/sludge. Solid lifters need periodic lash adjustment. • Oil delivery to top end: Restricted passages, dirty rockers, or inadequate bleed to the heads/rocker shafts. 20W-50 is thick (good for racing/protection) but can flow slower to the valve train when hot/cold. • Rislone effects: Rislone Engine Treatment is marketed to quiet noisy lifters/valves by cleaning sludge/varnish and improving lubrication. Many report it helps (sometimes dramatically) when left in the oil, but results vary—some see temporary improvement then return of noise, or it can loosen deposits that then circulate. • Other: Worn valve guides/stems, incorrect lash (if solid), loose rockers, or even exhaust leaks mimicking valvetrain noise. High-compression + race cam setups are inherently noisier than stock. Recommended Steps (in order) 1. Confirm the noise source: Use a mechanic’s stethoscope or long screwdriver to pinpoint (valve covers, specific cylinders, etc.). Check for noise changes with RPM/temp. Pull a valve cover and inspect for oil reaching the rockers. 2. Check/adjust valve lash (critical if solid lifters; even some hydraulic setups have adjustable rockers): Do this hot, per cam specs. Improper clearance is a top cause of noise/ticking in these engines. 3. Oil change + fresh treatment: Drain, change filter, and run another dose of Rislone if it helped before (follow bottle instructions—often one per oil change). Some keep it in ongoing. Consider a shorter drain interval first to flush any loosened junk. VR1 + Rislone is a combo others use successfully for noise. 4. Try a different oil temporarily: • Stick with VR1 or similar high-zinc racing oil. • Some switch to slightly thinner (e.g., 15W-40 or 10W-40 high-zinc) for better top-end flow if noise is temp-related, but watch pressure. • Add zinc additive if needed (VR1 already has good levels for flat-tappet protection). 5. Deeper checks if it persists: • Compression/leakdown test to rule out valve seating issues. • Inspect/clean rocker shafts, pushrods, and lifters. • Oil pump/pressure relief valve (high-volume pump common in builds). • Cam/lifter wear (aggressive cams can eat lifters if not broken in perfectly). These engines love thick oil and zinc for the valvetrain, so your setup is in the right direction. The noise may be “normal” characteristic for a hot 426 Max Wedge on the street, but addressing lash, cleaning, and ensuring oil flow usually quiets it noticeably. David C Hurd On Jun 28, 2026, at 1:46 PM, 'carverex@xxxxxxx' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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