--Matt,
I’ve held off responding, hoping you’d arrive at a successful installation of your replacement reproduction shift cable, but it doesn’t sound that way. I too attempted to install a new reproduction shift cable from Imperial services back in 2011 on my G. My original shift cable was leaking from a deteriorated sheath, and decided to just replace the whole cable with new from Imperial Services.
I installed the new cable and did as you have trying to adjust it following the FSM. I simply could not get it to adjust properly. I finally gave up on it and put a double layer of shrink tubing over my original cable shroud, reinstalled it, did the FSM cable adjustment, and finished the job. No leaks, shift cable working fine, still in car. I seem to recall that it appeared to me there was too much play between the cable and the shroud, making the shift selection not distinct enough to maintain proper settings. I appreciate vendors that make reproduction parts for our cars, but find it can be a hit and miss effort. Perhaps others have used their cable with good results, but my experience was not good. I’ve not heard of an original shift cable fail, usually they just leak oil.
Bob J
From: 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2026 10:17 PM
To: 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Re: 1962 Trans Shifter Cable Adjustment
Well I have failed today; ha!
My new, replacement Shifter Cable is from Imperial Services.
I assume it is 100% the correct overall length, as a factory cable from 1962.
And then my assumption was that I should follow the shop manual step-by-step.
With my kid pressing & holding the “R” button I pushed in the new cable into the Reverse Detent….
I then proceeded to spin the Adjusting Wheel clockwise, until it touched the transmission case….
Then aligned an Adjusting Wheel hole to the screw/bolt hole…. (This was Hole #1 of 5)
Kept rotating the Wheel 4-more spaces & threaded in the screw/bolt. (These were Holes 2, 3, 4 & 5, as referenced in the shop manual)
Did that work?
No dice.
So I backed the Adjusting Wheel 1 hole counter-clockwise, no dice.
So I rotated the Adjusting Wheel 2 holes clockwise, no dice.
So I started over from the top & still no dice.
Some adjustments let me get into Reverse. Would then go into Drive IF I pressed the “2” button (not the “D” button).
My last adjustment…..
Car stated in Neutral.
Would go into Reverse and Drive, yet would not get back into Neutral!
I gave up after too many tries.
If anyone has any other helpful hints, please let me know.
OH -
When the Neutral Safety Switch is OUT…..
I can look in & see the Lever as the “N” button is pressed.
It is supposed to be in the dead center of the hole.
Yet mine would be offset & I would then center it by moving it maybe a 1/4”.
I do not know if that Lever needs some type of adjusting.
Maybe if the Shifter Cable was 100% adjusted correctly…..
The Lever would then be centered?
Dazed & Confused….
Matt Allyn
On May 3, 2026, at 10:03 AM, Matt Allyn <allynentertainment@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I installed a new Shifter Cable and followed the step-by-step instructions from the factory shop manual….
(1) Raise the car on a hoist. Have an assistant
hold the R (reverse) button firmly depressed.
(2) Remove the push button control cable ad-
justment wheel lock screw at the left side of trans-
mission (Fig. 22).
(3) Rack the adjustment wheel off on the cable
guide (turn counter-clockwise) until two or three
threads are showing on the guide behind the wheel.
IMPORTANT
Test the wheel for free turning on the guide; re-
move any dirt or burrs in the threads of the cable
guide that may interfere. Lubricate the cable guide
threads with a few drops of transmission fluid.
(4) Hold the control cable guide centered in the
hole of the transmission case and apply only enough
inward force (approximately two pounds) to bottom
the assembly at the reverse detent. While holding
the cable bottomed, rotate the adjustment wheel
clockwise until it just contacts the case squarely.
(5) Turn the wheel clockwise just enough to make
the next adjustment hole in the wheel line up with
the screw hole in the case.
(6) Counting this hole as number one, continue
turning the wheel clockwise until the fifth hole lines
up with the screw hole in the case.
• 7) Install the lock screw, and tighten to 40 inch-
pounds torque.
And yet…..My car does not drop into gear upon pressing “D". I have to press “1” for it to go into Drive mode.And so….I feel I need to pop the cable out & start all over again.
(Or maybe NOT pop the cable fully OUT, but remove the lock screw from the adjustment wheel & then back off the wheel as it notes, and then start back with the adjustment procedure?)
Any helpful hints that may be over & above what the shop manual tells me?
Or….Just follow those steps again & have fun?
Thanks!
Matt Allyn
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