If it is a bad ground take a test light put it on the ground on the battery then go to the headlight bulb check power on high and low side of bulb check for power then go to the ground on headlight and see if test light lights. If there is power to bulb then everything before bulb is good, then if the test light lights on ground side it is a bad ground. Good luck Mel Stoltzman
From: 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2025 7:57 PM
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: club chrysler <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 1962 - Headlight Question
This is interesting.
It seems to have been an abrupt change after the wrecked parts were swapped; which was the front fenders, hood, grill, etc.
I am not sure how to trace for the ground from the switch to the far headlight socket…..
But all responses are good & helpful, so I thank you all!!
On Dec 21, 2025, at 4:26 PM, Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:
I have read the comments of bad switch and inaccurate breaker action and agree both are good possibilities. I would add check for a ground in the complex wiring on the high beam side—from the switch to the far headlight socket. Especially if there was a collision. And, especially at the bulkhead connector where a bad connection can cause heat and havoc. Merry Christmas to all.
After replacing the front clip, after a wreck….
The headlights are fine in Low Beam mode….
When stepping on the Headlight Dimmer Switch, to flip it into High Beam mode….
The headlights completely go out; all of them.
I have checked all connections at the bulbs and that checks out.
Could this be a weird wiring issue at the Dimmer Switch?
Though I don’t recall that being touched in the wreck fix job.
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