Everything Mike said is a good starting point. Also, check the actual switch. I would take it out, cleaning with electrical contact cleaner, then spray the inside good with a
Deoxit or similar and put it back in. On my 1949, admittedly 6 volt, running a separate #10 or #8 ground wire up (or in the case of the ’49 a positive) to a negative bolt near the battery and a direct wire over to battery really improved the motor operation.
Just too much resistance in the body. One other thing to consider, I do not use brake fluid or trans-PS fluid in my convertibles. I use a good quality hydraulic circulating fluid specifically engineered for hydraulic
cylinders. James
From: 'Mwl1967'
via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
I can't imagine anything "clogged". Was the fluid level low? If you filled it you may have air in the system. If I recall the level should be checked
when the top is open, not closed. Does it have more or less trouble when the engine is running? Have you checked the ground connection at the motor? Disconnect and clean all the electrical connections at the switch and the motor itself. Remove the metal contacts
from the plastic connectors and clean them by blasting, with a wire brush, or Deoxit solution. Lubricate all the pivot points in the top. If all else fails it may be time to replace the pump and/or cylinders . Mike Laiserin On Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 09:01:20 AM MST, <mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote: Hello All, My convertible top lifts up just fine when the top is up and it has to move off the
windshield to lower it. It has a lot of problems lifting from the open position (resting in front of the trunk). I tried cycling it, but each time the top is open, it struggles to lift up the first
half of the cycle. I have not checked to see if the hose/cylinder is clogged. Is it best to start with the top of the cylinder or bottom? Any other suggestions. Thank you, Mark Lindahl ’63 300 Conv. PS-my pump is using brake fluid, not power steering fluid. --
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