Re: {Chrysler 300} 57-59 Convert window / top alignment ,

Hi John;

I still think you are dealing with a "Plumb" problem here.

Just thought of this AFTER I typed all the below, Do you have an iPhone? If not, borrow one.

Built into the phone is a digital level/plumb measurement app. Find it under "Measurements" I think. This will tell you in degrees the angle of something you set the phone on. Lift the top and put both side windows up all the way. Then place the long side of the phone on the vertical edge of each window and see the degree reading. If way off from each other... Easiest place to start solving this.

Top Pins drop into place in front, so header is where it needs to be.

Now, you need to verify where the top rail contact point for the side window fully up front point is in relation to the bottom corner of the fully up side window is, on each side.

By your description, one window is inboard and the other is outboard at the top corner/top rail.

So, it's possible that the door pillars are off a tad (doors could still be adjusted to close fine), or the rear bolt/anchor is off. There must be places you can measure crossbody to see if it is square.

Maybe from the right door jam to the left pivot bolt head versus the same point on the left door jam to the same point on the right bolt head. Should be exactly the same.

If the pivot points are off just a little bit, there-in is a problem.

If you are shimming a part which was not designed for shim adjustments to fit, you are covering up a problem.

This may be a waste of time, but at least you will know that the body is square.

Hope this helps in some way, Ray

On Sat, Nov 9, 2024 at 10:48 PM <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

So It appears I have been trying to help you adjust your rear windows to suit a roof rail that is in the wrong place. Another member twigged to this. Now the previous help provided for the front windows will also have been wasted since they are now in the wrong place...

John, bite the bullet and get the roof rail fixed properly. Can't fix one mistake with another. You will probably find your windows miraculously fit once the roof is correct.

Luckily for me, I know nothing about adjusting a convertible top. I am still in awe when we raise and lower the Mustang's top. When I was a young engineer, our engineering team had Design Draftsmen who could visualise and layout complicated moving machinery. They only then came to me to work out how strong those parts needed to be. Takes a different mindset.

Henry

-----Original Message-----
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Sunday, 10 November 2024 6:34 AM
To: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 57-59 Convert window / top alignment , — still more

Thank you to all who helped . learning a lot including picking up some severe mistakes by po you can avoid

Getting involved in an “almost finished “ restoration by someone else is brutal . great guy , just stuff happens that you win

We were able to improve alignment in and out of rear window by shimming lower rail behind the motor , although now the roller tends to want to run out of one end . …window full up . bear to fix , to get back in again . New issue .
= Whole thing out again from behind panel . 6-7 th time

plus the following

There can be only one correct all the way up height of rear window on our cars as the rear window moves forward at end of up travel , over painted body at door top edge to seal to front door window— and small rubber seal at bottom there to painted rear quarter has to be just so — within 1/16” vertical or better .
So given that , and resulting fixed location of top of rear window when right,—-this window drags on our convert top rail = too tight vertically , so has to be the rail is too low …
Can guide the window in ok if top up a few inches in front, unlatched , but convert top is then prevented from pulling down in front , by rear window — even though pins are perfect , and all works — IF you lower rear window 1/2” . auuugh

How it has been adjusted ….

Additionally top has a kind of “over center “ action — it strains a bit near vertical and then snaps forward, inverse happens too . All related I think . Top adjustments are all wrong , unknown till fixing back windows

So after a lot more work , sleuthing = the first heavy top rail on big bolt had been adjusted (by its actuation link - the big bolt itself is fixed) to be too low , when the top is latched , by po , vertically wrong from day one , major major error as when you correct that to let rear window work right, it raises the “ hump “ in cloth roof center , and a roof bow too , . that impact will pull pins toward back 1/2” , — if you could pull it down . You can’t . Roof cloth is now too short !!
This was why my roof material seemed to “ hang over” the rail structure too much …i thought roof is made a little wrong - a clue for you , — window tops should not reach roof fabric — not so
much due to the max window height up ,, as much as roof fabric down over rails , and down over the seal rubber too much . I have seen that on other mopars .
This is despite roof rail when latched looking perfectly adjusted , looking flat / horizontal from the side at start —- With rear window down a bit .. as I got car , left that way over the in and out issue. . He must have thought, — with the in and out issue , — adjust back window later . Not happening . Ever .

The huge problem I have is he had a beautiful new top professionally installed, over a maladjusted frame , now top cloth is now too short to move pins forward ( auugh) by adjustments there in front to move top header forward . Top has to be taken off to even get to those
You MUST have rear window working right and first part of top linkage cast rail set to right height for back window to be seated fully up and forward before fussing with rest of top adjustments , let alone putting on the cloth .
This car is cursed , now , emphasizes me to state this : especially on convert : to mark permanently on the metal all body adjustments before paint / disassembly .
I long for a car with factory settings on its top , you would too , 4 weeks now , a deep pit .
Not a convert top guy , looks like glue involved at front of roof
Must be screw holes in back too in heavy vinyl cloth
Frustrating thing .. all of it . New top too ?
More time in this than driveline ..
j g

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Re: {Chrysler 300} 57-59 Convert window / top alignment , — still more