{Chrysler 300} 57-59 Convert window / top alignment , — still more

[John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thank you to all who helped . learning   a lot including picking up some severe mistakes  by po you can avoid

Getting involved  in an “almost finished “   restoration by someone else  is brutal  . great guy , just stuff  happens that you win  

We were able  to improve alignment in and  out of rear window by shimming lower rail behind the motor , although  now the roller tends to want to run out of one end . …window full up .  bear to fix , to get  back in again . New issue .  
= Whole thing out again from behind panel .  6-7 th time  

plus the following 

There can be only  one  correct all the way up height of rear window on our cars as the rear window moves forward at end of up travel , over painted  body at door top edge to seal to front door window—  and small  rubber seal at bottom there  to painted rear quarter has to be just so — within 1/16” vertical or better . 
So given that , and resulting fixed location of top of rear window when right,—-this window drags on our convert top rail = too tight vertically , so has to be the rail is too low … 
Can guide the window in ok if top up a few inches in front,  unlatched , but convert top is then prevented from pulling down     in front  , by rear window — even though pins are perfect , and all works — IF you lower rear window 1/2”  .  auuugh 

How it has been adjusted …. 

 Additionally top has a kind  of “over center “ action — it strains   a bit near vertical and then snaps forward, inverse happens too  . All related I think . Top adjustments are all wrong , unknown till fixing  back windows 

So after a lot more work , sleuthing = the first heavy top rail on big bolt had been adjusted (by its actuation link -  the big bolt itself is fixed) to be too low , when the top is latched , by po , vertically wrong from day one , major major error as when you correct that to let rear window work right,  it raises the “ hump “ in cloth  roof center , and a roof bow  too , . that impact will pull pins toward  back 1/2”  , — if you could pull  it down . You can’t . Roof cloth is now too short !! 
This was why my roof material seemed to “ hang over” the rail structure too much  …i thought roof is made a little wrong  - a clue for you , — window  tops should not reach  roof fabric — not so
much due  to the max window height up ,,  as much as roof fabric down over rails ,   and down over the seal rubber too much . I have seen that on other mopars  . 
This is despite roof rail when latched  looking perfectly   adjusted ,  looking flat / horizontal from the side at start  —- With rear window down a bit .. as I got car , left that way over the in and out issue. . He must  have thought, — with the in and out issue   , — adjust back window later . Not happening . Ever . 

The huge problem I have is he had a beautiful new top professionally installed, over a maladjusted frame , now top cloth is now too short to move pins  forward  ( auugh) by adjustments there in front to move top header forward .  Top has to be taken off to even get to those 
You MUST have rear window working right and first part  of  top linkage cast rail set to right height for  back window to be seated fully up and forward   before fussing with  rest of top adjustments , let alone putting on the cloth . 
This  car is cursed , now , emphasizes me to state this : especially on convert : to mark permanently  on the metal all body  adjustments before paint / disassembly . 
 I long for a car with factory settings on its top , you  would too , 4 weeks now , a  deep pit .   
 Not a convert top guy , looks like glue involved at front of roof 
Must be screw holes in back too in heavy vinyl cloth   
Frustrating thing .. all of it  . New top too ? 
More time in this than driveline ..  
j g 

  

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