A brand new mechanical regulator may smoke a bit when first installed. The resistors on the back are factory coated with a substance that smokes on first use. Ballast resistors do likewise.
Hook it back up and see if the smoke stops and you see 14.5 volts +/- across the battery
Dan
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message -------- From: Drew W Carl <drew@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: 10/23/24 9:54 PM (GMT-05:00) To: dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, ROBERT HAAG <scooter465@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 66 300
I have learned a lot in the last 24 hours. I tested today with
the field wire jumped to the battery. That seemed to fix the issue
so I got a voltage regulator from napa and all seemed well. I saw
15 volts and then the regulator started smoking. I pulled the
battery cable and walked away from it for a while. This thing has
really been a good time. I am not sure where I will go from here
yet. If you have any advice I would love to hear it.
On 10/23/2024 8:18 AM, dplotkin wrote:
Robert, the later square back alternator has two
field lugs. The earlier round back has one field lug. A square
back can be used with a mechanical regulator provided either
field lug is grounded, doesn't matter which.
You full field (test) either type by disconnecting
the field wire from the alternator and applying battery voltage
to the field lug. That will drive a functional alternator to
15-18 volts depending upon RPM.
The alternator is internally grounded to the case
and hence the car. Ground wires are used but probably not
required.
The aforementioned is subject to correction by
John Grady or others far smarter than I.
Danny Plotkin
Sent from
my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 10/22/24 8:58 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 66 300
All the same till 1970
When they went to electronic voltage regulator 1 field plug
and
Battery lug.
1961-69 has two field
Plugs and battery lug.
Bob Haag
Can anyone verify for a 1966 300 with a 440, should the
alternator have a ground wire attached to it like my 62?
My 65 imperial also has this same wire but the 66 I am
working on does not. I am wondering if some one cut if off
in the harness. When testing this alternator, and voltage
regulator is grounding the single feed wire what would
cause the alternator to put out voltage? I am trying to
test it in the car, the manual on the website is quite
thorough but for the person I am working for they would
like to replace the unit. I just need to determine if I
need an alternator, voltage regulator, or both. The car
seems to have had some hacking done to the electrical. I
have to hook the body ground back to the battery, its
gone. No idea where it went originally. I can see some
wire ends have been replaced and probably the voltage
regulator at one point. Just makes me wonder wire I only
have the field wire and the heavy output wire and no
ground. Thanks for all the help. I am starting to feel
like I am sending too many messages about this car.
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