{Chrysler 300} Re: Success (almost)

[John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

no  do the diagnostics  first , most likely cap is fine . Just asking what  you used 
FYI on sine wave ac, the peak of the  ac wave is 1.4 x the “ rms” values calibrated used to measure AC , so 200 ac is about 280 peak volts or what a DC cap would see , 2 x that is nice safety factor , would be 560 DC rated 

Rms comes from “ what AC volts gives me the same heat light hp etc as a steady DC “ 
so by a lot of math , as ac is varying , it turns out that a peak of 140 ac volts is the same as 100 steady volts 
That is the “ root” in root mean square , square  root of2 , is 1.4 ( or other way .707 ) 
so you  buy by kwhr ac or dc same power same volt number , due to this , avoids confusion 100 watts is 100 watts either way 

> On Sep 30, 2024, at 12:42 PM, dave mason <forwardlook300@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> John-
> Forgot to mention about the cap.  I believe I used a “760v” (which I assume means DC volts).  I also have some 530V ac.  I could change the cap and see what happens.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 30, 2024, at 10:54, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> 
>> check 12 v on input to power supply , the orange wire , that it stays there with lights having gone off . — to separate the 12v car wiring from power pack / HV
>> Did you change wring or  a mistake? the dash lights go on with headlight switch  — nothing to do with  key ? ? loose main wire at key ?does  incandescent 12 v in transmission or heater stay on ?
>> run 12 from battery direct to orange  feed into ps leaving the white connected .. should light up
>> Dimmer  resistor  on headlight switch is common offender on erratic dash lights . hard to fix  right too , you can short out that resistor so lights  stay full bright , which  in general is where you leave it anyway .
>> Separate a ? 12 v issue from pack or hv issue first .
>> If hv , any gauge shorting  out kills all hv / gauges usually  without hurting power pack ,— vibration of key may be shorting some gauge radio tach etc . if that is case , disconnect white one at a time till you find  it  
>> Common offender is tiny wire in gauge to needle touches metal , one at a time will find which one
>> 
>> hope this helps
>> there is no overvoltage shut down , that looks nice and  bright !
>> Anything from 190 -240 works , ac, higher end  is a little brighter
>> 
>> Cap you put in is st least 630 dc right? less rating can break down
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Sep 29, 2024, at 8:20 PM, dave mason <forwardlook300@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi guys,
>>> 
>>> Wondering if you’ve run into this, or know what it sounds like, electrically.
>>> 
>>> I replaced the cap and the resistance wire in that power pack (resistance wire is the 2 ohm value).  Cleaned grounding contact surfaces.
>>> 
>>> Soldering in the 2-ohm resistor:
>>> <IMG_6434.jpeg>
>>> 
>>> 
>>> When I turn the lights on, no EL lighting.  However, if I turn the key back and forth (ie to run and/or accessory) the EL lighting comes on nice and bright.  For about 2-3 seconds.  Then shuts off by itself.  
>>> 
>>> I did not bench test the unit but maybe that is advisable to see a/c volt output (in case there is an auto shut off for high volts?).  
>>> 
>>> I managed to get a picture when the EL lights were on.  I also took a few second video (not attached due to size) showing how fiddling with the ignition switch gets the lights to come on then they shut off on their own.  Here is the picture, in case it looks overly bright or something:
>>> 
>>> <IMG_6469.jpeg>
>>> 
>>> 
>>> You can hear a slight hum when the EL lighting is on then it stops when it kicks off.  
>>> 
>>> Thanks for any ideas!
>>> D&K
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
> 

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