Sorry if I am confused by your response... I can do a brake flush in 45 minutes either using my wife or my vacuum pump. (Don’t read that the wrong way – ha!) I don’t have to treat DOT4 like nitro-glycerine. That’s a good thing – right? Why manufacturers don’t want to deal with spongy brake pedal complaints for the rest of their lives from less than perfect brake maintenance. Experts can give themselves a gold star, but the real world is less than perfect. Both my Mitsubishi and 78 Valiant brakes haven’t rusted internally in 25 years in my care. My Valiant has its original master cylinder. So what exactly is the problem? DOT3/4 absorbs water preventing rusting until it becomes saturated and can’t absorb anymore. That’s why you replace it – before the water is out of suspension and rust can start. Millions of cars can’t be wrong. 10 year Mobil 1 with 10 years of sludge in the engine??? I hope you are joking. Same issue with 10 year brake fluid imho. Need to flush the crap out before it does serious harm. While I like my 300C, I also like my Mazda 6. Hasn’t started rusting after 2 years like my 300C was known to do. Gets 40 mpg instead of 10 mpg. Can walk away from a crash that would kill a 300C driver. 5 year warranty instead of 6 months. Doesn’t fumigate pedestrians. Do I really need to go on.... Too bad you Yanks can’t buy one anymore. You don’t know what you are missing. Zoom Zoom! Henry From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Grady Hi Henry , The reason it is not used is extremely high cost new* . Period . As in an era where saving $ means more $ to the perps, thus “ cut an inch off the tail pipe” is the mantra Second , Mazda cast iron in brake cylinders rusts just like 300 cast iron rusts Third , to correctly bleed 4 wheel cylinders is 4 hours, a lift and often 2 people , and in a 300 you stand a good chance of stripping or breaking a bleeder . Or it leaks a bit after . You ever cut little copper discs to seal it? I have . You will never touch them again with 5 . Fourth and most important , glycol carries water to wheel cylinders whether you bleed it or not , and if it precipitates out ( as it does) you get a rust pit starting . And you don’t know that ; depends on temp changes and atmospheric pressure charges , humidity , storage time, etc . . You crash once over this it leaves an impression on you .Sudden complete loss of brakes of course in a panic stop . you get two or three pumps. That’s it . But cannot use with ABS . We don’t have ABS . That may be bs too , but mercedes for one says that . They just want more 1500 $ service visits with 800 cabin air filter and change brake fluid . Maybe . Like 1000 mile oil changes , = revenue . Or forced to it by glycol . Fifth , soft pedal is because an airhead( laugh) shook the can . Silicone oil is not compressible . But it literally takes 5 months on shelf for micro bubbles to settle out . I learned that first time , soft pedal . Any soft pedal is an incompetent install of 5 , such as just pouring it into master . More bleeding does not fix it 100 % as air still comes out slowly ,you did not wait 5-6 months, accumulates in high spot like top of rear axle hose. Have to crack that . Last , a mazda is disposable . Use cheap stuff . I wish you luck with it but if its computer acts up ? — They own you if it does. No FSM , no software for Henry . A 300 still alive today may still be saved in 100 years, like a 1906 Packard today . Don’t want ? of defective wheel cylinders over saving 20 $ . — right ? Someone posted you don’t have to fanatic clean out old glycol fluid , I read that too . I think on a manufacturer’s site ? The fluids co exist ok to a point . I don’t know how these stories get started ? A solid reference on that would be good on 300 site . Not opinion But beware who is talking if $ involved . I have a CX 30 ,agree with you , best of Japanese cars imho ( no Toyota rip off 600 $ front brake jobs) and it required a new thermostat , a few months old , all mazdas did a few years back . You have to practically disassemble the car to get at it . .Lots of double talk from dealer about no parts available , ( he is on hook for labor) so I bought one at NAPA brought it to him . “ We only install Mazda parts” So “ OK my lawyer will talk to owner tomorrow- what is your name?” . “ well, let me se if i can fit it in” north south engine and a real torque flight style transmission make me happy , Mazda a really good car . Dealer a dealer . Mobil 1 is ten year oil , by ( buy) the way ! Back to brake , when it gets hot under hood I imagine vapor pressure of water rises ( it does) so water vapor in glycol in master pool tends to leave in daily use ? Why some masters have a vent hole ? But when cools works the other way , but net of this — in daily use cycling may keep it relatively dry . This may be why cars vary , — In use may be far less a problem than when stored over winter . That said i have seen at least 10 300 wheel cylinders with pits under the seals in my 50 years with 300’s. Going back to 70’s. Happy driver is totally unaware .Just changed his glycol ymmv jg * I scored gallon cans of it mil surplus years ago on ebay cheap . Got lucky , but have to store right , pour right , treat like nitroglycerine On Jul 4, 2024, at 12:09 AM, Henry Schleimer <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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