Hi Henry , The reason it is not used is extremely high cost new* . Period . As in an era where saving $ means more $ to the perps, thus “ cut an inch off the tail pipe” is the mantra
Second , Mazda cast iron in brake cylinders rusts just like 300 cast iron rusts
Third , to correctly bleed 4 wheel cylinders is 4 hours, a lift and often 2 people , and in a 300 you stand a good chance of stripping or breaking a bleeder . Or it leaks a bit after . You ever cut little copper discs to seal it? I have . You will never touch them again with 5 .
Fourth and most important , glycol carries water to wheel cylinders whether you bleed it or not , and if it precipitates out ( as it does) you get a rust pit starting . And you don’t know that ; depends on temp changes and atmospheric pressure charges , humidity , storage time, etc . . You crash once over this it leaves an impression on you .Sudden complete loss of brakes of course in a panic stop . you get two or three pumps. That’s it .
But cannot use with ABS . We don’t have ABS . That may be bs too , but mercedes for one says that . They just want more 1500 $ service visits with 800 cabin air filter and change brake fluid . Maybe . Like 1000 mile oil changes , = revenue . Or forced to it by glycol .
Fifth , soft pedal is because an airhead( laugh) shook the can . Silicone oil is not compressible . But it literally takes 5 months on shelf for micro bubbles to settle out . I learned that first time , soft pedal . Any soft pedal is an incompetent install of 5 , such as just pouring it into master . More bleeding does not fix it 100 % as air still comes out slowly ,you did not wait 5-6 months, accumulates in high spot like top of rear axle hose. Have to crack that .
Last , a mazda is disposable . Use cheap stuff . I wish you luck with it but if its computer acts up ? — They own you if it does. No FSM , no software for Henry . A 300 still alive today may still be saved in 100 years, like a 1906 Packard today . Don’t want ? of defective wheel cylinders over saving 20 $ . — right ?
Someone posted you don’t have to fanatic clean out old glycol fluid , I read that too . I think on a manufacturer’s site ? The fluids co exist ok to a point . I don’t know how these stories get started ? A solid reference on that would be good on 300 site . Not opinion But beware who is talking if $ involved .
I have a CX 30 ,agree with you , best of Japanese cars imho ( no Toyota rip off 600 $ front brake jobs) and it required a new thermostat , a few months old , all mazdas did a few years back . You have to practically disassemble the car to get at it . .Lots of double talk from dealer about no parts available , ( he is on hook for labor) so I bought one at NAPA brought it to him . “ We only install Mazda parts” So “ OK my lawyer will talk to owner tomorrow- what is your name?” . “ well, let me se if i can fit it in”
north south engine and a real torque flight style transmission make me happy , Mazda a really good car . Dealer a dealer .
Mobil 1 is ten year oil , by ( buy) the way !
Back to brake , when it gets hot under hood I imagine vapor pressure of water rises ( it does) so water vapor in glycol in master pool tends to leave in daily use
? Why some masters have a vent hole ? But when cools works the other way , but net of this — in daily use cycling may keep it relatively dry . This may be why cars vary , — In use may be far less a problem than when stored over winter . That said i have seen at least 10 300 wheel cylinders with pits under the seals in my 50 years with 300’s. Going back to 70’s. Happy driver is totally unaware .Just changed his glycol ymmv jg
* I scored gallon cans of it mil surplus years ago on ebay cheap . Got lucky , but have to store right , pour right , treat like nitroglycerine On Jul 4, 2024, at 12:09 AM, Henry Schleimer <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hey I get it. Some people are more comfortable with a polishing cloth than a spanner in their hand. That’s OK. As a mechanical engineer, I prefer a spanner (hate polishing). I don’t think an hour’s work every three years is so onerous that I would use a fluid that no car manufacturer uses. Is there a reason for that or is it a conspiracy??? If you own a museum or military storage facility, fair enough. I don’t. I would like to point out I change my radiator coolant and engine oil when I do a brake flush. I recently discovered that our new Mazda doesn’t need a radiator coolant change for the first 10 years – wow! So for those that use DOT5, expensive spark plugs, electronic ignition conversions, fuel injection systems etc on their old cars, consider popping down to your Mazda dealer for another way of saving an hour’s work every three years – for a price of course. When I find an expensive engine oil that lasts 10 years, I’ll let you know. Henry From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Dyke Ridgley
Sent: Thursday, 4 July 2024 8:45 AM
To: Chrysler 300 Club International
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} DOT 5 Brake Fluid Dave: All I can tell you is my personal experience. I have done Duesenberg, Auburn, Ferrari, Maserati, Cobra, Corvette, Letter Cars, Dodge WO23, Lancia, Alfa Romeo, Ford, Jaguar and on and on, by sucking the reservoir dry, refilling with DOT5 and bleeding old fluid out of the system till I get 95% purple fluid. On Wednesday, July 3, 2024 at 4:31:49 PM UTC-5 dave mason wrote: Hi Dyke, We have a couple of vehicles (64 sport and 61 Willys pickup) where I replaced the master and all wheel cylinders and hoses but kept it Dot3, before I was aware of the benefits of Dot5. If I can convert these to Dot 5 without replacing everything all over again that would sure be nice. I was under the impression you had to replace hoses and wheel cylinders, even the master cylinder, and flush all hard lines with alcohol or some solvent when converting. That way it’s pretty well like starting from new. If you’re saying the system will tolerate just flushing and bleeding Dot5 until you are basically seeing purple, I would do it. For some reason I was under the impression that anything that has Dot3 already in any rubber seal should be replaced. D&K We have had another round of member discussion regarding DOT 5 brake fluids, so I wanted to separate my comments from other threads about master cylinders, etc.
Everybody has opinions on DOT5 brake fluid. This has been my personal experience: 1. I have converted over 150 cars to DOT5 since 1977. 2. I have only had two issues. On two cars with Brand New master cylinders with new “tight” seals, both cars’ brakes had a millisecond delay in releasing. Just enough delay that you noticed it. I converted them back to DOT3/4 and the issue went away. Now that the cars both have years of usage, and the seals have settled into the cylinders, I am sure a DOT5 conversion would have no problems. 3. I have never flushed a brake system prior to DOT5 conversion. I drain the system, add DOT5 and bleed until I have 95% DOT5 exiting the system. Never had a problem with mixing fluids. 4. Dow Corning did extensive testing with mixing DOT5 and DOT3 fluids and found no resulting issues. 5. Don’t shake or drop the container of DOT5 fluid. It aerates easily and it takes some time for the air to leave the fluid. 6. My bleeding method of preference is “gravity”, with vacuum bleeding next and “pumping” the pedal as a last hope (see Item 5 above). 7. It makes no difference which corner of the car you bleed first. I start at the corner closest to the master cylinder to get new fluid through the master as quickly as possible. 8. I change DOT5 fluid every 10 years because I feel guilty and to continue to remove any remaining DOT3/4 fluid from the system. I change conventional fluids every five years. 9. DOT5 fluid will not work in ABS systems due to the higher viscosity of DOT5 not being able to pass through the microvalves in the ABS controllers. 10. We DO NOT use DOT5 fluid in our race cars. It has a high temperature “window of compressibility”. Below that temp the pedal is hard, but within the temp “window” you get a spongy pedal. Not a good thing on a race car. 11. If people complain about a “spongy” pedal with DOT5, they have not done a good bleed of the system or are not bleeding the brakes correctly. DOT5 will give just as good a pedal feel as any other fluid. I have NEVER encountered a “spongy” pedal using DOT5. Remember, before you start yelling and screaming, this has been my experience and your results may vary. Dyke Ridgley
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/bd0d18e5-2ff0-416f-b313-b38de49b48fen%40googlegroups.com.
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/66862081.630a0220.c6741.86bdSMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN%40gmr-mx.google.com.
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/D6A67D59-7C07-4E8A-84D9-521B59A566F3%40gradyresearch.com.
|
