Sorry, must disagree. 20 hour rates are for low current performance, like trolling motor application. Cranking amps is what matters, it’s not marketing hype. The starting battery’s most important purpose is to turn the engine over to start, must have adequate high amp capacity to provide that, especially important in 6 V applications, that’s why heavier cables are a must. A starting battery has many thin plates for high current, more acid to lead surface area, 20 hour rates aren’t important for starting. Yes, more lead is better but thin plates even more so. Less internal resistance = higher current to starter, that’s why two 6 volt in parallel work well. Golf cart, forklift and trolling motor batteries have thicker plates for longer run time, are lacking in high current output but can go for hours. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2024 11:39 AM
To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 55 Imperial 8 Volt optima are not good batteries despite the rep and very high cost (see the 20 hour ampere hour rate , how you compare batteries , all the other numbers are marketing hype ) Because they are smaller ( what matters in batteries is what they weigh , the amount of lead , not fancy marketing and colors ) — and generally small batteries will have more internal resistance inside . Optima 6 v are light small batteries . But sure are better than a dead old one . And as James mentioned , sealed agm batteries have very low tolerance for overcharge . May even blow up . No place for gas to go , pressure vent will open . over7 v on charge is too high , yet old batterie and regulators often charged even higher , 7.5 -7.8 etc . Why you added water back then . 8 volt setup a disaster unless 8 v battery too . Even then bliws bulbs but brighter for a while So paralleling two optima will cut that internal resistance in half , crank volts will therefore be higher . Maybe almost as good as a perfect new oem big heavy six volt battery was in 1955 . Once cables are big enough , going larger does nothing . You can calculate % volt drop in cable easily from wire tables , and the starter amp draw in FSM ( the torque test ) . It was optimal as designed , thicker than oem is almost $ wasted . But ends are often corroded where cable goes in , or surprisingly often the terminals are not tight enough or crud inside So yes paralleling Optima 6 v may make sense . Personally i have used Trojan golf cart batteries in 6 v , over 200 AH and about 100 -120 bucks ,( may be more now) but might need mechanical adaption . Packard V 12 were 6 v . nuff said Why did you feel that that was necessary ? What advantage did you see in this ?
My 6V 55 Desoto will start after two cranks, provided that the bowl is full or close to full. When the car sits for a while (weeks/months), I’ll put it on the charger for about an hour. Yes, it will crank until the bowl is full, then start and run smoothly. Ron For 6 Volt guys only: Fifteen years ago I bought a ’52 Saratoga that had two Optima 6’s installed in parallel, like when you jump start a car. Together they are the size of one 12 V battery. They fit perfectly and worked great. Since then I’ve done the same with a C-300, and three other cars. I do load test each one periodically to make sure both are healthy. Needless to say, heavy cables and solid connections are essential. Chuck
Also note that this guy’s ‘expert’ mechanic cranked up his voltage regulator to the point where his battery is overcharging and leaking acid onto the holddown strap, causing noticeable corrosion. This is not a Letter Car but many things cross over thus my comments. I spent over five years restoring a like example and know the workings well. I currently have three 6 volt Chryslers and once installed with heavy battery cables, good and a strong battery (I use Optima 6 volts in a case) ZERO issues with cranking and starting. Years ago when we had our first C300 there were starting issues and I went to the 6/12 battery which worked but it looked terrible, was expensive and short life. Ken Brody approached me and said I can fix that. My first reaction was you don't know what you are talking about but after desperation I let Ken do his thing. From that day forward ZERO issues and that has been close to 30 years. Our newest C300 had cranking and starting issues even with a new 6 volt Optima battery. There was a list of repairs needed and one of them was correct battery cables. Brad Brody came over and made them correct size for the application using heaving cables. Once installed and on the first crank she fired and has done so ever since. So on that issue I agree with Ron Waters and would not call it an upgrade. Other items noted in he video (and I'm not to the end yet) was incorrect brake master and booster, wrong upper radiator hose and the list could go on. The owner states Desert Rose for the top color which it may be but not from the factor because that color wasn't offered until 1956. More than likely it was Canyon Tan which was a 1955 color. Now for my personal pet peeve, Kelsey Hayes wire wheels. KH was not the builder but MotorRim was. They were a factory option from 1953 through 1956. If you doubt me on this remove a tire and look at the stamping on the rim and it will verify this. Last, Chrysler Imperial ended with the 1954 models and in 1955 simply became IMPERIAL. This name remained for several years. It’s not an ‘upgrade’. It’s jury-rigging for folks that don’t want to rebuild their starters or replace their crusty, oxidized wiring harnesses. Ron --
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