Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Temp & Fuel gauges

Since we're on the subject, I have a question about my 61G fuel gauge. Oil pressure and Temp gauges are fine, but full tank has always given me only a 3/4 reading on the gauge. I have a replacement sending unit, which I connected up under the car (without messing with removal of original from the tank). I think it came from Van's? When I manually manipulate the arm into the full position, I get the same 3/4 reading as I do with a full tank of gas using the original. I even ran a separate ground wire from the sending unit to the body in case the little bridging clip or steel lines were contaminated with surface rust giving me a grounding problem. Interesting that two different sending units give the same 'inaccurate' reading on the fuel gauge, while temperature and oil pressure read fine. Is there some sort of calibration of the gauge itself that could be wrong, or maybe some ground connection of that particular gauge in the instrument cluster causing this issue? I've never run out of gas since acquiring the car in 1998, because I just wait until the gauge is down on 'E', and I know I still have something like a 1/4 of a tank left. If I actually solve this issue and forget that I did so, there might be a chance I do run out after having my brain calibrated the way it is for so many years! ;-)

On Sun, Dec 31, 2023 at 1:23 PM 'Dave Dumais' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thanks for input. I have the temp gauge working.

I am Going to re install the other fuel gauge.

There was a wire that left the wiper switch.

Once I stalled the temp worked but not fuel.

I have no tester in house.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, Dec 30, 2023 at 6:22 PM, 'dave mason' via Chrysler 300 Club International
<chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Clean grounds as John says; also re-seat the 5-pin connector that feeds the circuit card on that side. Sometimes a loose connection there can prevent either input voltage or gauge continuity. You can ground the wire at the temp sender and see if the temp gauge starts going up. Same for fuel- ground the wire at the sender and watch fuel gauge.
Keep in mind that, since you replaced the fuel gauge, you have also replaced your limiter. The voltage limiter feeding the fuel and temp gauges their 5V is inside the fuel gauge housing.

You can check for +12V at the appropriate wire in the harness that terminates at the 5-pin connector. I don’t recall the wire color but it should be at the circled pin here:

As you face the dash while sitting in the driver seat it’s the second one from the right; if you look at the back of the instrument cluster it’s the second from the left. Make sure you have 12V here.

D&K

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 30, 2023, at 17:21, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

sounds like no ground on metal or board ground , that plug .. Jump around ground pin to solid ground or solder pins to board
see posts earlier this year .
Do not leave key on you will burn out gauges , regulator does not work if not grounded puts 12v on 5 v gauges burns them out . Why it pegs .
Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 30, 2023, at 5:16 PM, Dave Dumais <dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hello and Happy New Year.

I have successfully replaced the 64 speedometer, and it is a working unit.

However, the fuel and temp gauges were also replaced.

Both gauges peg to left during operation,
And the high beam indicator does not function.

Believing that all elect. connections are correct
Any thoughts or experiences?

Thanks
Dave D

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

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