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I have actually done three of them in the 1980’s. I am just being lazy this time. At the time George advised me on what was a good set of modifications for spirited, not raced, driving and if one is going to load the car down weight wise
and travel with it. That is why I am asking as I lost that list. There are known issues with the torqueflite. I am looking to address any of those weak areas. Some of those issues were remedied in later factory changes. But as ’64 is still early for the aluminum units, there are some things worth doing. I am trying to tease out the changes that would be yield a “heavy duty” torqueflite versus a high horsepower race torqueflite. James From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Behalf Of dplotkin I know there are many who like to try to burnish perfection. Unless a 727 is going to be used abnormally, in competition and so forth, I would avoid any modification whatsoever from stock configuration using the highest quality Parts you
can lay your hands on combined with the finest expertise which is frankly far more important than the parts. It's widely recognized that the 727 was the best 3-speed torque converter automatic ever devised. I think our transmission expert Don Verity would tell you that knowledgeable rebuilders use the tricks they've learned in the trade concerning incremental improvements and assembly methods. Anyone you choose to do your transmission over
be able to accomplish that. The worst thing you can do here is have a transmission guy who has never done one of these do yours. The 727 as with just about all Chrysler engines and Transmissions were fully developed when introduced. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Date: 5/22/23 4:25 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 'Chrysler 300 Listserver' <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 1964 Torqueflite
Hi Dan, I was thinking more along the line of modifications for longevity rather than increased HP. Things like: 1. The recommendation to decrease the input shaft end play to 0.016 - 0.034 inch. (Hemi Anderson) 2. Add an Oil Groove to the Rear Output Shaft Support as many stock units display galling. 3. Use an 11/32-inch end mill to elongate the slot on both sides of the stator support oil feed hole. 4. Use 5 clutches instead of 4. 5. Use billet servos in place of the cast units. Of course, new sprag’s and new oil pump gears and the best friction material and plates I can fine. Not looking to make the shifts much more then stock. Perhaps 300K RAM specs on the governor. I used to have a complete write up from George in the 1980’s with a list of good, better, and best upgrades for spirited street driving of a 300 Torqueflite, but I will be darned
if I can find it. James From: Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
I defer to Don Verity who routinely rebuilds these units. If you intend to use it as a passenger car I wouldn’t modify anything. I have a later model 727 in a 61 Plymouth behind a 440. I chose it for part throttle downshifting ability. It was built using a
B&M Hole Shot converter, TCI performance bands, 4.2 ratio band lever and a heavy duty servo spring. These mods help the 727 survive a pretty strong ram inducted 440. The shifts are quick and firm but not unpleasant. Not sure you need any of this in a stock
K, but I’ve been happy since 2007 with this.
Danny Plotkin From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
My trans will need rebuilding in the 300K. What modifications have stood the test of time in the last 20 years and what modifications are just a waste of money? I would appreciate folks’ thoughts. James --
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