The ‘56B wiring diagram on Page 134 of electrical.pdf (jholst.net) shows power to the backup light switch comes from a terminal on the wiper switch—which has its own breaker. So, if your wipers work, you should have 12 Volts at the red-wire side of the backup light switch. Page 124 shows the back of the wiper switch. I can’t tell for sure but the red wire to the backup light switch may be a slip-on type connector at the wiper switch—rather easily disconnected while dashboard diving. In any case, check for 12 Volts and a solid connection there with the ignition switch on. I would not suspect any discontinuities in the #18 red wire from the wiper switch to the backup light switch—but anything could happen. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA-Bomb cyclone just starting with high swirling wind. Cyclone is offshore and not expected to land but we are getting the wet side of the cyclone’s tail. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Ron Waters If you jump the switch and backup lights don't light, then the 'hot' side of the switch isn't connected. Look at the schematic to see where it is supposed to be connected. Maybe one of the 'switched' terminals on the ignition switch ? Or jump from a known 'hot' lead to the hot side of the switch, just for testing purposes. Then push the reverse button. You should see the b/u lights go on. Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of BRIAN WALKER Hi Ron, Thanks fir the quick reply & guidance. Jumping a hot over to the terminal does light up both bulbs, however jumping terminals on the switch does not light them up. Nor do I see any power at the terminals when testing, so either I missed something on the checking integrity of wires going front switch to the trunk area or it is the switch has gone bad. Thoughts? Much appreciated. Thanks, Brian Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device From: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> Brian - When you jump across the wires on the switch, do the backup lights work ? Are you sure that the housing properly grounds to the body ? Jump the housing to bare metal in your trunk. Do they now work ? Connect a 'hot' lead to the socket wire. Does it now light ? I've had sockets where there was enough corrosion on the brass center terminal to cause the bulb not to light. You can use a Circuit Tester (not a Continuity Tester, which is the one with the AA battery) to verify that you're getting power to the backup lights. Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of bwalk05 Hello Everyone, I'm trying to troubleshoot a reverse light problem. I've gone through the wires, replaced the bulbs and visually confirmed the reverse light switch on the 5-button TorqueFlite push-button assembly is mechanically working. All other lights are working properly. Any suggestions for what else to check? Before purchasing a new reverse lamp switch, I wanted to make sure I'm not missing any tricks per say? Thanks, Brian -- -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/01fe01d9208d%2426fe0700%2474fa1500%24%40ez2.net. |
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