Chrysler used a block to body ground strap all the way back to at least the second world war. My ’47 and my ’49 both have them.
I usually do three or four things in addition to changing that strap for a new one.
- I run a flat braded ground strap from one of the motor mount bolts on the block side of the engine motor mount, around the mount, to a bolt on the frame side of the motor mount.
- I run a wire from the alternator body to the engine block.
- I take out a rivet from the headlight bucket assembly. I replace it with a long stainless machine screw so and drill a hole if need be, in the body so it will stick out behind the
bucket. I then run a ground wire from both the buckets to a large ring terminal at the battery. I then put that terminal onto the bolt for the battery ground. (Or positive on my older 6 volt cars)
- I run a #12 ground wire to the rear of the body near the back and bolt to the body in that area.
James
From: 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, January 2, 2023 21:31
To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Larry Wood <larryjw7@xxxxxxxxx>; D.C. Mason <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>; dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} K Spark plugs and Alternator gauge
Question on this chain…for clarity please…
- My Chrysler are 1962 models.
- I have ran a ground strap from the rear of the block to the firewall; on the passenger side for the cars for years.
- I don’t see note of it in the wiring diagrams of the shop manual. Is it somewhere on their diagram?
You are 100% correct on this , originally it had a wire usually from rear of passenger head area to fire wall . Not replaced after engine pull .
That missing wire forces all the ground current to flow rearward through the driveline and trans , that ruins ball bearings by pitting them with small arcs , and interferes with VR if a drop in voltage . However battery is solidly grounded
to engine bolt . Some cars have a dual ground lead out of - post that one part of lead goes to body at battery . But looks non stock on early car
There is no need to run to alternator case at all as it is solidly grounded to block . VR is solidly grounded to body . So just like stock, take wire from say rear intake bolt to firewall with correct ends is way to do it . Some small
starter cables at napa for foreign cars might be good , as 12 is on the small side . I’d say 8 gauge . Jeep GC 4.0 02 have a braided ground cable there , might work .
While on this , I have relocated battery to trunk on a few cars ( 80 lbs to the back and out of way) . Then starter current (300A) needs to be dealt with , body to engine aspect of it . It would ruin U joints etc
So I started routinely putting a jumper at passenger engine mount , block to frame , using short starter cable with big eye lug in both ends . Use one engine mount bolt and one on frame . Frame one sometimes hard to get at , I drill and
tap for like 5/16 or 3/8 bolt . This is bulletproof way to do this .
John
I thought i would share the problem i had with my 300 i burned up 5 regulator s and alternator problems galore .I was telling a Chrysler Engineer about the problem.He said the Body to the Engine ground straps were faulty .He said run
a. #12 wire from alternator body to the regulator base where it bolts to the fender. I did that my headlights quit going from dim to bright. And i have had no problem for 16 years .i also replaced the Engine ground straps to the Body. Hope this helps.
Larry w
Thanks Danny- I’ll disconnect the FLD wire at both ends and run a temporary new wire to check if it’s that…
Dave & Kya
An alternators output in controlled by the magnetism of the rotating field coil, which the regulator feeds based on demand and output. A sticking regulator contact can cause
the alternator to go to full output (16+ volts) brighten lamps considerably and wreak havoc on battery and other parts that don't enjoy being powered 40% higher than design.
A short in the wiring between the regulator and alternator may exist, carefully inspect the wire connected to the field terminal on the regulator for its entire length to the
alternator.
Hello group,
The old Champion J12Y plugs in the K have been replaced with NGK 5670-8 (3354) plugs. While test driving the car, the pinging that was still sometimes heard on hard acceleration appears to be gone. Will try driving on a warmer day and verify again.
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The below video clip was taken on the test drive. Anyone ever had an alternator gauge go bad in a 64? Wondering if that could be the cause of the attached. Gauge goes from 25% to pegged at 100% sporadically at no particular engine rpm. Dash lights go accordingly
from dim to the brightest I’ve ever seen a 63/64 go. All lights are affected- not just dash lights. Headlights go bright and dim too along with gauge indicator movement. This issue was seen when we first got the car and is still happening even after replacing
the alternator, headlight switch and voltage regulator (they needed to be updated anyway). Battery is also new. The first thing I’d suspect is the voltage regulator but as I say it’s new and the problem was happening with the old regulator too.
Temperature and fuel gauges are unaffected and function properly. So ruling out voltage limiter because of that, and the fact that headlights are part of the problem. We’ve owned several 63/64s and have never seen this before. As we all know, subtle changes
in brightness of lights in these cars are sometimes noticeable with changing rpm’s but this happens at a steady cruise and is much more dramatic. I will check the gauge with an ohmmeter and compare to another alternator gauge. Maybe folks will have other suggested
culprits.
Note- the other problem mentioned recently on email with headlights cutting off when using high beams was on a different 64 (Newport) and was solved by replacing the headlight switch. The subject car of this email is the K. Along the lines of gauges we are
also having a problem with the 64 300 sport temperature gauge being dead but I’m still troubleshooting and will report any lessons learned.
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Thanks,
D&K
Sent from my iPhone
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