You are 100% correct on this , originally it had a wire usually from rear of passenger head area to fire wall . Not replaced after engine pull . That missing wire forces all the ground current to flow rearward through the driveline and trans , that ruins ball bearings by pitting them with small arcs , and interferes with VR if a drop in voltage . However battery is solidly grounded to engine bolt . Some cars have a dual ground lead out of - post that one part of lead goes to body at battery . But looks non stock on early car There is no need to run to alternator case at all as it is solidly grounded to block . VR is solidly grounded to body . So just like stock, take wire from say rear intake bolt to firewall with correct ends is way to do it . Some small starter cables at napa for foreign cars might be good , as 12 is on the small side . I’d say 8 gauge . Jeep GC 4.0 02 have a braided ground cable there , might work . While on this , I have relocated battery to trunk on a few cars ( 80 lbs to the back and out of way) . Then starter current (300A) needs to be dealt with , body to engine aspect of it . It would ruin U joints etc So I started routinely putting a jumper at passenger engine mount , block to frame , using short starter cable with big eye lug in both ends . Use one engine mount bolt and one on frame . Frame one sometimes hard to get at , I drill and tap for like 5/16 or 3/8 bolt . This is bulletproof way to do this . FYI John Sent from my iPhone On Dec 31, 2022, at 1:40 PM, Larry Wood <larryjw7@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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