Hi John You should consider where people live when recommending thinner oil. Here in Brisbane Australia winter daytime temp is 21C and summer 29C. I have used Valvoline XLD 20W-50 (formulated for older pre-catalyst engines) for 30 years in my Mopars (and a Mustang). Thinner oil doesn’t cut it when you are idling in traffic and its 35C outside. Learnt my lesson 30 years ago when Mobil 1 came out and I put some in my mum’s slant six. Started to blow smoke under full throttle. I tried XLD and no smoke ever. Cheers Henry From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Saturday, 26 February 2022 9:07 AM
To: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: D.C. Mason; CAROLL RIPLEY; 'Keith Langendorfer' via Chrysler 300 Club International; Richard Osborne; chrysler 300 club
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Cams Hi , just adding , at some risk ( smile) On oil , the important thing is to use synthetic like Mobil 1 and zddp . Thicker oil is for race cars with a controlled limited temp range and they have increased the bearing clearance for it to .005 . Our cars are tighter .003 or less . Use what mopar tells you ? 10-30 There is a common misunderstanding , that high oil pressure ( which you get immediately from thicker oil ) is good . Totally incorrect , as that means oil is not flowing freely in close spaces unless the wider .005 clearances are there . You WANT correct oil pressure , not “ higher “ as that lower pressure tells you the flow is fast and free (as designed ) to cool and lube the bearings . And the cam . The tiny Clearances around the lifter ARE what oils the cam . Put in thick oil , less gets to cam / lifter . The pump is a positive displacement design —- so always so many cc come out of it , per turn , so when you see high gauge pressure the free flow is by definition restricted and the pressure relief may even be opening . Especially at cold start , thick oil pressing against a fine perforation free flow filter . Just when you most need oil . I had a milodon external line oil hi flow setup with two filters on a 480” 426 hemi cuda , one cold morning both oil filter canisters exploded . Lesson taken again . But wow —a high gauge number !! Like over 80 ! So a lower reading at idle is normal with hot oil . “ This high oil pressure is good, “ stuff comes from many old fords , which often ran 5 psi at idle due to a small pump . Upsetting to motor heads — but they still ran to 100k , as thinking then was there was little bearing loading at idle , especially on 55-57 Y block . Flickering oil light , = “experts “ , mostly the armchair type, will then say don’t buy that car . ( used ). More technically , the pressure does not lift the rod away , hydrodynamic waves as it spins lift it , takes 1000’s of psi ; the job of oil pump is get the oil into the space , filling it . Happened to me at 18 , the flickering light, pro rebuilt the 312 engine , ( for nothing) it did the same thing when all was perfect . Lesson taken . All 57 ford idiot lights flicker at idle . Mopar , no . Larger pump .. As far as brand preferences , all these little boutique oil companies do not own refineries . Mobil 1 invented synthetic and probably makes all of it.. real chemists, real research etc . Buying some , and adding purple dye and a new label , or some nascar driver recommendation ( driver?) for $ paid is not indicating better oil ( just me ) . However synthetic really is a lot better . I saw a test of Mobil 1 in a 350 Camaro analyzed every thousand miles , it went 18000 before any degradation was measurable . 2-3 x better ! So I am ok with 10 k changes like the new cars . I have had two 4.0 jeep daily drivers that passed 300k miles each using zero oil between 10k changes . And it does not “ leak out easier” . But again ,— to each his own is always fine .. That last link was broken, try this for Duke William's paper on old car engine oil. https://www.ncrsmac.org/ed/Engine/Engine%20Oil%20%20For%20Vingage%20Corvettes.pdf -----Original Message-----
From: "D.C. Mason" <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2022 4:21pm
To: "CAROLL RIPLEY" <ripinator@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "'Keith Langendorfer' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Richard Osborne" <reomotorsports1@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Cams As long as we’re on the subject of oil, and since I was one of the voices in favor of VR-1, a question hanging out there for me is oil weight preference. Rip I’m not familiar with the Penn (Pennzoil?) but seeing some of the recommended weights make me wonder. I use 10W-30 VR-1 in all the 361/383/413s. I understand that a heavier weight oil can be problematic….? dave Richard: I think your cam looks fine. It is probably better than any new cam you can buy - especially since the lifters spin and there is no apparent wear. Recently, there have been serious issues with some of the currently available cams - and especially the lifters. However, I would definitely upgrade to a high-zinc oil such as Penn Grade 20W-50. That would help to ensure your cam and lifters will last for years to come. Hello, Since there has been a lot of discussion related to a cam for a different year, I am trying a new email thread and attempting pictures for the first time to the group. I have the top end of my G engine apart. I had a bad exhaust leak and wanted to detail some things by taking the intakes were off. While apart, I wanted to look at the cam as I have never run zinc. The engine was assembled 20 years ago, using a Mopar Performance Cam P4452783 (6 pack specs which were close to the original cam specs). I degreed and retarded the cam per factory specs…. If the pictures come thru, the discoloration can be seen on some of the lobes. You cannot, however, feel any roughness or anything other than very smooth, even with finger nail. The lifters all still spin on the lobes also I am thinking since I am in this deep, I should replace the cam. Unfortunately, this cam has been discontinued and the replacement seems to be intergalactic backorder. I would consider a Comp Cams, but the specs are different. I’d like a lope to the engine, but when possible, I do drive this quite a bit around town and don’t have time to be changing plugs frequently, so I don’t want to go too large. My question is for those who have a lot of experience with cams and rebuilds. What are your thoughts on these discolorations on the lobes and simply keeping this cam in the engine? (Currently stuck in San Jose due to multiple cancelled flights….) --
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