Hello 300’ly to all! It took me a year going through the transmission woes that have been mentioned in this thread after I had my rebuilt 392 installed and had a non-transmission guy hook up the linkage (or should I say hook down the linkage). After beaucoup bucks and I drive the car for the first time I almost got clipped not once but seven times because the transmission wouldn’t shift correctly or just did not move the car! Not good in traffic!! Got the car back to the installers garage and patiently explained the situation (definitely a sign of maturity or aging). Got Don Verity on the line and He set things strait with the mechanic and got the car to drive correctly, ALL due to linkage setting!! Things were I thought going swell until I went on the Road Rally at the Auburn Hills Meet with me at the wheel and Mark Obermann riding shotgun and Spanky Cox being the back seat driver!! Mark first said it was fabulous to ride in a reliable Letter Car! I beamed! Spanky said the car shifted great! I have a permagrin. Then all the gremlins raised cane with the transmission! The shift points were set at higher speed than normal by my mechanic after he got the linkage correct by Don Verity’s coaching. However, I noticed early on before the meet that when I would get my foot into it there was a resistance felt by the accelerator pedal that had to be over come. Well back to the Road Rally as the gremlins appeared the shift from 2nd to 3rd took forever and at a higher speed and then stopped shifting when we pulled into the host hotel parking lot. The next day I showed up late to the car show because I was trying to find what changed in how the car was shifting. Fortunately when getting to the car show I found Don and I explained what was happening. He immediately said that the transmission linkage needs to be adjusted properly and the transmission did not have to be rebuilt.( visions of dropping the transmission in my trailer at the meet and having it go east to Rhode Island as the rest of the car went west to Oklahoma in my trailer seemed to be the remedy). Fortunately my trailer is a drive over the wheels affair yielding an under vehicle ally way to work repairs without needing a jack stand set up. We first winched Don Cole’s L up into it and replaced his starter. Then it was my turn and in less than 10 minutes Don verity did the linkage adjustment. He stated that there was too much tension at the full throttle kick down point and he worked his magic! Drove car out of trailer and shift pattern normal with no resistance when engaging the secondary carburetor and easy pedal travel. The car shifts according to what is stated in the owners manual and is a pleasure to drive. Needless to say, this Club is blessed with such fabulous talent as exhibited by Don Verity and others. Rob Kern
Cannot agree more with John. You must use the shop manual regimen for throttle linkage adjustments and throttle valve adjustment and the procedure is what it is because it is interrelated. It is also rudimentary as such linkages go and as such must be set up right. All automatic transmission diagnosis should start with fluid level and throttle valve rod adjustments. yes — but if pedal angle not right , just setting it that way alone can be all wrong , It can limit wot or not move enough or fast enough toward WOT . Or carb plate movement is not synced right to trans pressure . people have often messed with say one adjustment only , —- often , —- over the life of the car before you so it can be way out . Three adjustments DO all interact right? They had so much trouble with this , in 60 they made those holes in firewall bell crank that you lock bell crank with a rod so you know where you are at start . Earlier linkages are a lot more complex than it looks to really get right . I got into this while making a new gas pedal repair pivot of stainless and aluminum to fix the usual rust mess , wobbly pedal at floor ( Forward Look parts ) I think i noticed by comparing F to earlier that one arm is level or almost so at bell crank at zero , meant as observed info not instruction . Ram setup section has good overall linkage info too . Remember it is NOT linear movement , the arms are all at angles . We should be just using the book exactly , ( really!) although some years are way better than others on this . Some much too brief . You really have to do it in exact sequence of FSM or you can screw it all up , been there and very frustrated at times , despite years of working on this . Average mechanic uses his own ideas , not the book . forget that . start over. Sent from my iPhone not by choice That's what I said The kick down linkage Controls shift speeds. If you make the rod longer It will shift later vise versa. The transmission throttle Lever should be completely Forward when carb is at curb So…I pulled an article from the Tech section entitled Torque Band Adjustment by Mark Eisenhart. Turns out the article is about the softness or firmness of the shift. My 300C shifts from first to second at about 11 mph, then shifts from second to third at about 20-25 mph. The engine is not that happy in third gear going 22 mph. What you are saying is that I can change the shift mph by adjusting the throttle rod up or down? The manual says proper shifting is 15 to 30 mph 1st to 2nd, 20 to 60 mph 2nd to 3rd. Henry I changed the intake manifold and carb on a Newport years ago and did not adjust that throttle rod- was surprised when the 727 shifted differently (late). Didn’t realize they are set to things like that but it really does affect it. Our 64 Newport shifts a little late when cold only when it’s either 2) has been sitting a while. WRT 2 above, does the torque converter drain out after sitting and cause that? I wonder if that could be part of Gary’s issue (if there are internal seals that might be leaking too much) but I’m not familiar with the mechanics of the 727 yet. dave Gary, I know Don Verity usually pays attention to the listserv but you might call him about this and talk it through first. Also, did you adjust the throttle rod to the shop manual specifications? Very important. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 11/13/21 8:44 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: {Chrysler 300} 57 torqueflight rebuild To all great folks in letter car land. It has been suggested that the delayed upshift from 1st to 2nd may be caused by a worn spring in the kick down governor assembly. I understand the 300 spec'd different springs/weights compared to other cast iron 3 speed torqueflights used in other mopars in 57 & 58. Is there a source for the upgraded spring/wt parts for the C? Any leads will be appreciated.
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