Polarity? ’56 shows negative ground. Stuck p/w or p/seat switch? Stuck Voltage regulator? Bad battery? Corroded battery terminals? Flasher stuck? Dead short somewhere? Cigar lighter stuck? Measure Voltages. 14.5 VDC when charging. 12.5 VDC sometime after shutdown. Check for a short with the engine off. Disconnect a battery and retouch the terminal. Should not be a flash/spark. I don’t think the bad distributor condenser would affect the current draw. Rich B. (M.E., not an E.E. like brother Grady.} Glad fall has arrived in Brentwood. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx Hi everyone, Just when I thought I was done with the restoration in time drive it before the snow flies --- It ran great on 3 short drives, then it started running progressively worse until it quit altogether. There was probably less than 1 hour total run time on the restoration. The whole time it was running around the neighborhood I noticed that the ammeter was pegged on the high side. I could turn on all the accessories and get it down about half charge. We rolled up our sleeves. BTW, the car was converted to 1956 = 12 v components in the late 60’s We eliminated fuel as the problem but we did find some ignition gremlins. Coil was switched, no change, ballast resistor and other components switched out and it still would not start or run. Then we put in a complete junk yard distributor in and it started right up, idled and ran great. Today I changed the condenser in the rebuilt 1st distributor and put it back in. It still starts, idles and runs great. The very high rate of charge is still there – is this a problem? Could it have contributed to the condenser failure? Is there anything else I need to investigate? Thanks as always …Jack Jack C. Boyle Enjoying the same C300 since 1967
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