Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint thoughts

IMHO, I would have the shop do sprayouts and then compare to a previously-covered area. Compare under cloudy bright skies or with a daylight balanced light source, such as what is in a spray booth. Never in sunshine. The shop can tint the initial sprayout until it matches to your satisfaction. This should be mandatory and insisted upon for any high dollar paint job.

Ron

From: mark love [mailto:marklove@xxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 3:55 PM
To: John Grady
Cc: pffkllc@xxxxxxx; ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint thoughts

Chiming in again. You need an old salt professional shop expert or expert painter that can take a hole-in-the-middle sample swatch book and pass it over the colour you have ‘today’ to get a match for a blend job today. The computer picture gizmo I’ve found can’t do the job. I mostly am repairing and blending so I look for the guy in the shop with the most grey hair (or little left, lol) above some crisp, well worn, coveralls. I use expert air brush artists when it’s beyond my rather modest pay grade

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 27, 2021, at 1:28 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I think old formulations are of no value as all the solvents have changed due to epa, and they all want water base now . Even mercedes paint is water base . Hard to believe . I think the law in Canada , —I have positive experience from there .

Sikkens paint used on MB outstanding stuff , body shops rarely use it , but those that do have a factory computer deal that really works in matching . You get a new formula for old colors , use sample from under taillight .

worked for me , not advocating anything , just info

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 27 Sep 2021, at 12:48 pm, pffkllc via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Speaking of paints, does anyone know if the original formulae for ditzler paint codes are available? I remember getting the formula for the 1964 silver mist poly several years ago, but have no
recollection of how or where I got it (age, you know). I now have another code (Ditzler12743 -Lucerne Blue) that I am trying to find but have no idea as to how or where to look. Any help

will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Pete Fitch

-----Original Message-----
From: RON WATERS <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Mon, Sep 27, 2021 11:45 am
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Paint thoughts

I thought the paint on Naif's car looked great. Actually what Tom White probably did was mix a little base color in with the clear. That gave it a single stage look.

Auto body workers have a lot of leeway when painting a car. They can add a touch of orange peel by increasing the gun-to-body distance when spraying. Or they can do minimal buffing after spraying to cut down on the 'mile of gloss' look you see on Corvettes. Or no buffing at all.

I would opt for a two stage paint, mainly because repairs (chips, mostly) are easier to repair. When I put my car back together after paint, I ended up with almost a dozen chips. The car went back to the shop for spot repair. There is no way of seeing them now. It was done with two stage base/clear. If the paint had been single stage, a full panel repaint may have been in order.

Ron

> On 09/27/2021 10:39 AM Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
> I have single stage urethane (Glasurit) on my 61 Savoy. Clear on black looks too greasy on a early 60's car. My friend Naif Makol, former owner of the yellow/black 59 Dodge Super D 500 convertible he restored agonized over the sheen issue and faithful appearance. He mixed clear into the base was happy with that. (search Mecum for John Staluppi's 59 Dodge and check the photos).

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