Re: {Chrysler 300} 1962 300 Sport - Linkage Adjustment
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 1962 300 Sport - Linkage Adjustment



I too have always found this whole thing really confusing , agree directions are clear as mud. The basic idea from one ( first) perspective  (I think - and based on experience , this is probably wrong ) is the carb hits the idle stop at the same time the transmission lever hits the low pressure end of the lever travel . ; that implies however it might not hit WOT kick down or part throttle shift points unless all travel had been perfectly matched  , by design, and then if too far that  way ( higher shift points) it could prevent carb from opening fully .  So maybe they want that high end shift right and let idle end of it be a little sloppy . So you can set idle high idle etc Add in the springy end stop at WOT and variability of where is carb at idle ?  
Would not matter too much at light throttle what the  exact upshift is, but matters at 1/2 to WOT. Or when accelerating a bit quickly .   Almost every time I have done this by book it needs tweaking after to “work right “ Hate that .... 
And it is very important to performance of car and transmission life. 
I notice that later mopar 727 and even slant six have a spring in this trans link up near the carb , allowing carb to over travel . They must have it hitting WOT in trans sooner ( a ratio change in linkage ) and then spring in linkage lets the carb keep opening after hitting trans WOT stop .And discrete feel of kickdown seems toned down with that Maybe spring in trans was changed too?
 Later trans have part throttle kick
down , i hate that “improvement” , shifting all the time and you can’t get on it in high without a kickdown . 
Personally I am more interested in what and why of how it works rather than specific instructions . If you understand intent you can figure out adjustment .
 pre 60 without the alignment hole on firewall linkage — and thus everything adjustable can drive you nuts with this , — if not marked when taken apart you lose factory pedal , carb and trans link settings ... then a vague feeling it is still not right persists .    
 Maybe Don V can add in . 
Last it seemed to me that early torqueflite  had a discrete feeling of kickdown , you had to press harder , even in 62 727 .  That says floored pedal is / has to be also trans end stop  .  Without spring in linkage has to be carb wide open too . Maybe what they are trying to do is first be sure enough pedal travel ( the 113 degrees) pedal synced to carb , then be sure when floored , the internal trans kickdown spring is compressed at WOT  . Why you push on it right through kick down spring travel to feel the end stop ? By the way the bushing in that lever is often shot at trans , brass one might be better ,any  play there aggravates all this. add in non linear swing of that trans lever as it gets pushed way back , 
Good subject to straighten out , put in tech section .  Even more fun with rams . ... 
thanks ,
John 

Sent from my iPhone not by choice 

On 14 Jan 2021, at 11:52 pm, 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Finally got around to readjusting the linkage - Carburetor on down to Transmission.
Before this adjustment, it was holding the shift for too long between all gears & not really wanting to shift.
Followed the book, again, step by step.

The test drive:
- It is now shifting almost too fast & almost too smooth; when accelerating normally from a stoplight.  BUT….
- If stomping on the pedal, from a dead stop, it feels right.  It holds 1st gear until hitting around 40mph.  Again; when floored.


A question about the true meaning behind step #7 of the adjustment instructions:
Located on page 14-43 at:
Which reads….

MOVE LINK ® OF CARBURETOR ROD ASSY. REARWARD UNTIL THE TRANSMISSION LEVER STOP IS CONTACTED.

In sliding back the Carburetor Rod….
When IS the Transmission Lever Stop actually contacted?
That same stop (in Step #4) has you move that Stop forward & then tighten the Transmission Lock Nut.
So when you then slide back the Carburetor Rod…how do you know when the Trans Lever Stop is contacted?

I always read Step #7 as….
You slide back that Carburetor Rod all the back towards the Firewall & tighten the Lock Nut

(Hope I just made sense)

Matt Allyn  



On Jan 3, 2021, at 5:02 PM, Cox <Scooter465@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi
I would check the transmission kick down adjustment. If it is set to long
It will shift late. A general rule
Of thumb. The throttle pressure lever on transmission should be all the
Way forward when the throttle  is closed at curb idle.


Bob Haag

On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:42 PM, 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Working on my ’62 Sport.
383 with a single 4 barrel.
New everything; engine, carburetor, transmission; even the shifter cable.
All linkage taken apart, cleaned all threads of adjustment areas & reassembled.
I have done the adjustments, very meticulously, per Group 14 in the service manual.

Now….
- It shifts from 1st to 2nd a bit late.  RPM’s up too high before shifting hard into 2nd (fine if drag racing, but not cool for the street).
- It doesn’t want to shift up into 3rd at all.

Helpful hints as to which steps, of 1 through 8 to readjust; or slightly change up a bit from the book?
Or start over & go step by step all over again?

Thanks!
Matt Allyn

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