Re: {Chrysler 300} 300c engine location and e brake
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 300c engine location and e brake




Hi  John 
 Yes there are really seemingly many combinations and adjustments to make.  However, to achieve the engine in balance and sit on their engine / tranny  mounts without stress, you end up in one and the same position with the mounts regardless, right must be on the right etc and on the correct side of the casting on the block.  

 In my previous picture with the tranny mount, you can see how my old one sat before disassembly, on the newspaper i marked vb is the left side  ... the rubber was completely spoiled.  Borrowed new pictures of insulators, if you enlarge them you can see that there is an elevated line in the insulators casting on the top side.  This arrow corresponds to the same place regardless of whether we are looking at early 57 open cup or later closed cup solid insulator as seen in the pics. We se both has this arrow where the most meat mtrl is.
 
  When lowering the engine at the front, be sure to have this raised line arrow pointing straight at the engine block.  In my case, I left the insulators in this position for god, and possibly slightly adjusted the engine in balance by adjusting the threaded shaft in the slotted holes in the frame bracket.

 The insulators are way exentric, having a set up where we turn the insulators by force in wrong position is not that difficult, if engine wheight is on
we cant feel the stress & we will ruin tranny mount aswell.  I tried to place engine tranny down more like floating down started on tranny mount.

 Will look closer at your writing tomorrow. 
Thanks Michael



Skickat från min Galaxy


-------- Originalmeddelande --------
Från: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Datum: 2020-11-19 23:29 (GMT+01:00)
Till: Michael Sundbom <micke.sundbom@xxxxxxxxx>
Kopia: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Ämne: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300c engine location and e brake

thanks Mike , I left that offset in the mount rubber out of all this discussion as the slots under the mount let you deal with that a little bit . I agree new rubber — the hole in new rubber is offset , too — right ? What you mean by arrow ?  
I got new rubber from Turkey of all
places ( for that Dodge ) but could not get the old rubber biscuit free of can . I decided might be vulcanized to can ? I used hydraulic press could not move it . Thought about burning it out . But center bolt thing had gone up
into can   about 3/8 , otherwise ok ? so just shimmed  it 3/8 over slot with large washers that did not hit can sides . Both sides were that way , ( no way was rubber coming out) — decided if in that solid , a new loose one might not be as good ?
Unsure about all this , re : vulcanized ( must have been)’but so far so good . When bolt moves up into rubber , the oil pan can touch crossmember , can outside can touch motor mount , and in that car , engine was not level side to side either . by leveling on hoist and tightening one side in slot then letting other side down , fixed that  too . weird setup ... 
Note that reversing mounts R and L I think reverses that offset too . Why I mentioned many subtle non obvious ways to assemble wrong . And all fits  together  ok , wrong    

Sent from my iPhone not by choice 

On 19 Nov 2020, at 4:33 pm, Michael Sundbom <micke.sundbom@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 Pics, swaped the early open cup mount and put in new insulators. Old  open insulators was collapsed and cups/mount out of round. First I got confused when new engine/tranny in place pointed the engine offset to passanger side.
Checked it over and now  to my understanding it is correct in place. I fitted the tranny mount first and then placed the engine mounts with  new insulators having the marked arrow towards the block.
 I can take mesurments pics etc if you want me
to,, just give me a note.
/Michael


Den tors 19 nov. 2020 21:20John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> skrev:
Hi all .
Working on  300c convert partially assembled by others , very careful work ,but maybe some significant errors . Just sharing experience data , and hoping to find answers too . What follows can happen to anybody ....
we noticed today the tail shaft of the trans is shifted to driver side , drum almost hits driver side floor and this led to noticing whole engine seems angled side to side in frame  . I measured front pulley to torsion bar centers  , engine is purposely I think shifted by Chrysler to the passenger side by design , approaching a 2” offset .   Note this does not matter to driveshaft or rear u joint — if parallel.  Rear pinion is parallel to frame ( 90 degree to axle has to be) says engine must be parallel too , for U joints  to   work right ( hmmmm— re : U joint hassles)

Quick take — it looks like trans mount crossmember (not the rubber mount ) can go into frame 180 out , shifting tail the opposite way (!)  . TBD .There are also multiple lower rubber trans mount holes in that crossmember . (?)  . I would expect engineering wise  engine axis is to be in vertical view parallel  to frame / torsion bars? And thus pinion . sideways offset is ok if parallel .

Also says engine mounts are asymmetric or frame weld on front mount places are. Or both . heads up .     

Related possibly , I had an awful time for a  while  last year with a 57 dodge that had been apparently assembled (unknown to anybody— especially me) after a PO engine rebuild ( not by me) with engine mounts swapped left and right and on wrong side of block tabs . that moves engine back and forth . Trans rubber mount was redrilled and was sitting  off the crossmember .  All the same parts as 300

This one presently has 392 block tabs located behind  the mount steel , moving engine back , (? correct) and fan clutch is about 3/4 from radiator . But tie rod is just about touching oil  pan drain dip , looks wrong. Block Tabs are maybe 3/8 thick , I might fix that ( if wrong ) by relocating  mount tabs ? = engine forward 3/8” ?? Compounding figuring that out, it had wrong tie rod ends, new , too long to adjust properly (from taper bolt to adjusting thread ) and the offset bend was a little different , could not adjust right , that was first clue . now correct 57 ends, but  tie rod still very near pan . like 1/8” ?? Ok , -normal or not ?

Anyone ever get into this ? there are 4 ways front mounts can be put in wrong -  Rand L  and forward back of tabs? it seems.

 ??? ? normal spacing fan clutch to radiator and tie rod to pan?   trans end normal offset to passenger side ?? There are Several tie rod part numbers too . (??) 

As those round mounts age , or get oil on them, they tend to sag engine down — pin inside goes up into rubber  but imho still serviceable  ; on Dodge we put about 3/8” spacer washers under each , raised engine back-up,  all is good .

Next , E brake on C was assembled completely missing the straight lever multiplying bar from the pull handle up to pivot pin above .  Cable end “U” is now attached  direct  to handle , which cannot work . I now need that bar and pins ( help !!) cable normally attaches to that lever or “ratio bar “ by a through pin directly opposite cable fire wall hole . Been into that area before — end U breaks off had  to weld to fix . Grip on E brake handle on this C is down , yet on 58 we have it is facing up . Is that right ? 

This is a very nice car , but I think assembled without good pictures or another one to look at . that is hard...   
I will Have to go through end to end..   
Carefully done work , but lacking knowing how it was ? ( = take pictures)

Last — and this can drive you to Jack  , convert roof cloth seems put on purposely front slightly offset (3/8” toward passenger side) ) , on roof frame and trim ,yet edge of cloth on driver’s side hangs down too much , such that driver window hits it . Head is hurting as to why this ? Rubber on roof rail seems ok , related to window . not into this just yet , but someone may have fought this one already .    ? .= somehow Height of convert frame rail on one side  when latched ? gap there in roof rail  at arm fold is closed .. roughly ok ??


The first day!!
John



Sent from my iPhone not by choice

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