Hi I find this very interesting . I had a J that fought me hard on brakes . I rebuilt everything. For years hassles , lack of trust. I discovered that hydro boost units are very common on gas engine medium size trucks like 18’ straight bodies . My problem turned out to be a fool had been in there , long ago, put booster together wrong . Wrong parts. ( brakes locked sporadically ) . Find a truck repair place .. they know how to rebuild . I also understand that the ? 67 dart small bore master is a fit on some of our ram cars non or power , but you MUST change pedal arm and MC mount plate if no power . Manual brakes have a totally different pedal ratio and thus different master mount height on firewall. Gives more pressure for same foot force. About 1.5x more . .. Dodge manual parts work on 60 F . I had new stock non power brakes on 60 dodge it worked great . Why I went that way on a “hot F” like Mike. ( low vacuum) Also dart 67. 4 drums . Right now have AAJ /GM front, F rears on 57 dodge no power . Not driven yet but troubled by low pedal . GM discs seem to need a lot of fluid , and pull back more than expected . Master from AAJ supposed to have the right valve , but seems not effective ? I saw wilwood came out with 4 psi valve ( was two psi marginal?) adding a 2 right now to AAJ TBD . Big fan of silicone brake fluid but can be a bear to purge air . Not sure if pullback or STILL air somewhere . On J , I agree keep stock , perfectly done . SS probably not needed with silicone, Imho. Does not rust .use especially in master to booster circuit . I have a 60 matador with dual master manual brakes , silicone , the right brake arm ratio and firewall plate AAJ kit , it works ok . FYI I think the J Bendix brakes need more psi than the earlier total contact leading shoe design .makes manual brakes tougher . Not sure if manual brakes were on 63 Chrysler ,? if so you need those pedal parts. Any comments on GM pullback issues ? or Residual pressure valves appreciated .—what pulls it back? Seems to be just the rubber . Have not been inside it. Hope this helps, John
Ps , while on brakes , some info: the vacuum canister on F ,G etc in fender can get small rust hole . Poor brakes poor ram idle . Drive you crazy . Flat spring hook can be put back on wrong side of adjusting cam in wheel backing plate (!) , not shown well in FSM . Saw that twice . Will not adjust right. Need 2-3 k miles for new brakes to bed in , lots of adjusting then great . Do not get discouraged . Will lock in spring, ( normal!) sometimes violently — apply them backing up . Rust in drum causes that . Sent from my iPhone not by choice On 23 Apr 2019, at 8:05 pm, Mwl1967 mwl1967@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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