If you do buy a switch- just remember you need a high amp switch- 20A I believe. Most auto parts stores switches wont be that high. There are no relays in the active pump motor circuits so full power goes thru the switch. The switch sold by Hydro-electric is rated at 20A.
Jeff Miklas
On April 3, 2018 at 8:15 PM "'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Steve - The switch's job is to control which side of the motor to send juice to. Or not to send juice to the motor at all.If you bypass the switch, naturally it's going to run. But nobody suggested that you should do that. You need to install a working switch. You can probably find a double toggle switch at Home Depot or electrical supply store. The toggle stays in the center (off position). Press in one direction to activate the up position. Release and it springs back to the center. Press in the other direction and the down position is activated. Release and it springs back to the center. That is what you need.Ron
From: Steven MacIsaac [mailto:samacisaac@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2018 7:03 PM
To: Keith Boonstra
Cc: Ron Waters; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 64 300 convertible helpFirst of all, thank you all for your help and knowledge, it’s been invaluable. I removed the switch, tested the socket to confirm one hot and two (up/down) cold leads. Filled the reservoir, it is on the pump side(passenger side) and there is an access hole in the motor mount bracket. Still not easy to get to, I used and old turkey baster and that worked fine but was slow going. Plugged the motor in w the switch eliminated and the motor STILL RAN!!. Quick check told the red lead from the chassis was indeed hot, although it should not have been. So I’m kinda back to square one. Any suggestions are greatly appreciatedSteveSent from my iPhoneOne thing that confuses some is that in your Chrysler positive 12V is fed at all times to the lights and motors of the body. Running or not running is then controlled by switches which merely provide ground, or negative 12V, to the various lights and motors.Therefore yes, probably what is going on is that you have a defective switch which is providing a ground - negative 12V - to the pump motor at all times.Keith Boonstra-On Sun, Apr 1, 2018 at 11:03 PM, 'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Steve - It does indeed sound like the switch. Best idea is to find a replacement. Also, you risk burning out the motor if the system is dry. I highly recommend filling the system, then bleed it by connecting and disconnecting the 'up' lead until the top is up. Then do the same with the 'down' lead. Then top off the pump.Good luck.Ron
From: Steven MacIsaac [mailto:samacisaac@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2018 10:51 PM
To: Ron Waters
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 64 300 convertible helpRon, I know the system is dry, not worrying about hydraulics until I get the motor side figured out, I turn the switch through it’s full range of motion, up/off/down etc several times and the motor continues to run, does not reverse or stop. I am am believing the switch is the problem but electrical is not my forteSent from my iPad
On Apr 1, 2018, at 8:43 PM, 'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
So when you say 'motor does not respond to switch at all', what are you saying ? That the motor doesn't run at all or that it runs continuously whether the switch is depressed or not ?Fiddling with the wires is not a good approach. You need to gain an understanding of how the circuitry works.To me, it sounds like the switch is shorted. So whether the switched is depressed or not, the motor runs. So that would mean that the switch needs repair/replacement.If the top doesn't move despite the motor running, then it's a hydraulic problem. Is there fluid in the system ? Has the air been bled out of the system ?Ron
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steven MacIsaac samacisaac@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2018 8:44 PM
To: leslie miklas
Cc: Steven MacIsaac samacisaac@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]; Chrysler 300 List
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 64 300 convertible helpWell the motor does not respond to the switch at all, so I guess the next step is to remove the switch and see if I can manipulate the motor by reversing wires etcSent from my iPadRegarding those grommets - saturate them well with WD40 or the like. Let 'em soak for a day and keep them saturated .Gently pry up on the motor with a large screwdriver while using a small screwdriver to feed the "fat" end of the grommet thru the hole. Do one grommet at a time. Take your time and you maybe able to save them. If anyone has replacements, it will be Hydro-electric. Many different makes use the same mounts.Chrysler used them all the way up thru the 1980s LeBarons.
Jeff Miklas
On March 30, 2018 at 4:36 PM "Steven MacIsaac samacisaac@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Hello All.Today I started to find out why my top doesn't go up or down under its own power. Removed the rear seat and lo and behold the motors unplugged. easy fix right?? not so fast, plugged it in and it runs constant. ignition off, switch off, top doesn't move, motor just runs. Any ideas??Also looked into removing the motor so I can get a better look at it, looks like its held in place by 4 grommets which after 53 years will be destroyed in order to remove, are replacements available??my service manual is useless on this areaany help is appreciatedSteven.
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