RE: [Chrysler300] Problems with AAJ power disc brakes on a C300
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RE: [Chrysler300] Problems with AAJ power disc brakes on a C300



I agree, leave both the drums and shoes as they 
are if possible, just break the glaze inside the 
drum.  I have had good luck forming new shoes to 
old drums using a coarse metal file.  Depending 
on the condition of the drum the thickness of the 
new shoes, it is either the ends of the shoes 
that have to be reduced or the middle.  A coarse 
file produces a not too rough surface with 
filings but not any noticeable dust.  Still wear 
a filter mask though.  I dampen the drum with 
water and press the shoe against it, the wetness 
on the shoe demonstrates how much is in 
contact.  When I'm satisfied that a good 
percentage of the shoe is in contact I  move to 
the other shoe.  The brakes work when reassembled 
and wear in completely in a short time.  I've 
used this on my old 55 Plymouth, my old 58 DeSoto and my 67 GTX.

Bill Huff



>My own experience has been the same, over and 
>over--- grossly incompetent work on the brakes, 
>mostly by opinionated  â??brake shopsâ?? who 
>never saw drum brakes before you showed up. Let 
>alone rather sophisticated s design of drum 
>brakes. Bumbling , accompanied by a lot of mouth 
>time  has often ruined them. Leading to final 
>pronouncement., â??you need discsâ?? Carl K did 
>not have discs. This is especially true of 
>â??turning the drums â?? and then putting new 
>shoes on which do not touch the drums except in 
>a small spot.(!!!!) Â IMHO leave the drums 
>alone! Keep the old shoes if at all reasonable , 
>mark with which drums (only recently started 
>doing this) , and actual ID of your drums NOW. 
>Turning was a way to make money ,and ok , first 
>time-- if you DO have a shoe arc grinder . Even 
>if scratched, today, leave drum alone . The 
>scratch will bed in. The first day you drive it 
>all beautiful shiny and smooth (and not stopping 
>you well), a single pebble can bounce in and 
>score the drums, So what? Look at modern discs 
>after 20 k miles?looks like a 78 record. so 
>what? Â Unless you have a way to arc grind the 
>shoes (no one does anymore) you just make the 
>whole thing a LOT worse, as most drums have been 
>turned before you ever saw them. . And drum is 
>then thinner, leading to new kinds of grief. 
>(vibration, out of round, warping) Brake shoes 
>that do not touch the drum 360 can never , ever 
>work on the self energizing scheme . I think it 
>takes at least 5000 miles to wear in new normal 
>size shoes into  an oversize drum. ---- during 
>which time you experience locking, poor braking, 
>rapidly  falling pedal, constant adjusting  
>etc etc Further they are dual self energizing in 
>front..a wonderful Chrysler engineering idea. 
>Twice as much stop as say GM with one leading 
>shoe. Â A very sound idea. I had, --- brand 
>new--- a 60 dodge Pioneer V8 with manual brakes 
>, I loved the brakes, I abused that car beyond 
>belief. ; I used to beat on my GM friend how 
>uncontrollable his 57 Pontiac power brakes were. 
>Liked a switch, on and off. If you stepped hard 
>enough , and not crazy hard, despite manual 
>brakes, you could lock the Pioneer wheels easily 
>. Cannot use any more â??stopâ??. Big Red (160 mph H) has manual brakes.
>
>



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Posted by: William Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>
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