We have two cars with steel brake hoses and the feel is better than the factory hoses. As I replace hoses I'll upgrade as the cost is close.One car has silicone fluid and I replace stop light switches at least twice a year as they fail. I never have that problem with conventional fluid.John LazenbyOn Friday, July 18, 2014 11:30 AM, "Steve Albu saforwardlook@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Steve Albu <saforwardlook@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Fri, Jul 18, 2014 at 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300F Brakes
To: Terry Mctaggart <terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx>
Can't answer your direct question, but my F has pretty much the same problem - but I also have silicone fluid in mine and I am confident I have all the air out of the lines. The one thing I have not had a chance to do is replace the rubber front brakes hoses, and perhaps the rear one too. I have read in another past post that someone put steel braided brake lines on their car and it solved the problem. Apparently the old hoses stretch too much is being implied.Steve AlbuOn Fri, Jul 18, 2014 at 7:05 AM, Terry Mctaggart terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
The saga continues. New master cylinder; new wheel cylinders. Brake adjustments at the wheels are right on. No air in the lines. Car stops straight and true, but the brake pedal is low. According to the shop manual, the adjustment for "pedal free play" is in the conection between the brake pedal assembly and the master cylinder. This connection is a two-part piece, Part 1 being "the end" which connects to the brake pedal assembly, and Part 2, called "the master cylinder push rod", which screws into Part 1. This screw end provides the adjustment. In my car, there is only one part, hence no adjustment is possible. Does anybody know where I might be able to find a two piece end/push rod assembly? Terry McTaggart
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