John and all-
The attached from the club website is an old article but might be helpful
in addressing some of your questions re. the original cam specs. http://www.chrysler300club.com/tech/cam/gk.html
And, yes, you would be correct that the J cam would have been a little “hotter”
than the F (375 hp hydraulic) cam as far as lift but same duration and
less overlap. The J was faster in high speed acceleration (for example 0
to 100 mph) perhaps more likely due to lighter weight than the F and especially
with the use of short rams with exhaust headers (vs. long rams and log exhaust
manifolds) and perhaps the slightly larger exhaust valve size and larger 2.5 in
exhaust system, and certainly the solid lifter/cam setup allowed for higher rpms
as well and the setup was tuned to a 3600 rpm torque peak with the short
rams vs. 2800 rpm for long rams. The F Special (400 hp solid
cam) was clearly more aggressive (ie. tuned for high rpm power and less low end
torque) than the J/ram K cam. The F Special was intended for high
speed racing, not regular road use; whereas the J is perfectly suitable for the
road.
Carl Bilter
Cub J consultant
From: John Grady
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 10:05 AM
Cc: 'Jean-Yves'
Subject: [Chrysler300] Cam specs different years.
I have run into some issues
trying to identify 300 C or D cam specs, I have 2 what are claimed to be 300D
cams, but have no ID beyond 3 numbers stamped poorly, near gear , in rough
part of cam casting..sound right? Any one have a C or D cam they know is real ,
with description? I do not have those stamped numbers handy. This brings up looking in
aftermarket; only 392 “in production” “listings” seem to be Comp Thumper series,
but those are hydraulic for 392. In looking more, hot heads has a 280 cam ,
solid and hydraulic, from which info I ordered a hydraulic for a non 300 392,
and it turns out to be an Isky cam; Might be too much for a letter car. One
person in their parts lists had a 270 Isky mega cam, both seem in right
area, but was unsure what original MOPAR duration was.(for 375/380 HP cam) ; I
did buy that 270 cam, price was right . That started me thinking about hi po
hemi cam specs ,355 hp 354 and 390 HP 392. How hot did Chrysler go on
cams? Having been young once , I also made the mistake of overcamming.
Much over 280 is asking for it , especially with old Torque flight converter.
(stall when you push D) Without taking sides, a modern
hydraulic is probably better than a 50’s solid; for one thing you should pick up
lift due to lack of running gap, for same lift spec, and under 6K modern
hydraulics do not cause problems ; and adjustment of solids, esp with adj
pushrods, goes away, along with a big oil soaked messy hassle.....in going
through all this also found out solid lifter push rods for C D ,probably
all solid A block hemi, have 3/8 balls on both ends, hydraulics 5/16 ; on my
supposedly “D” engine someone used 5/16 push rods, 5/16 hydraulic lifters
with D rockers and supposedly D cam, all wrong . But Hot Heads makes 3/8 by 5/16
pushrods ( might be adjustable but lock them) so you could run hydraulic cam and
lifters with D adjustable rockers , using Chevy approach of one turn tight
beyond clearance click. But that means set up hot and oily. Not
good. This brings up more generally
ram cam specs , long ram, and J cam specs. I had a J , much more cam in it than
F , or so it seemed ; ----and what was in 400 HP F?- While a lot to ask, it strikes
me someone in club has all this at finger tips , maybe a list? Note also that
difference in duration between advertised lift and lift at .050 duration in this
range is about 50 degrees ; so a 280 is about 230 at .05. Comments welcome ; it would be
good for all of us to know this data; and then comes how to tell what cam is
what. . Also does anyone know a simple
way to tell hydraulic from solid grinds? I know it can be done at cam
manufacturer by some kind of cam plotter they have , which would show accell
ramps on solids before main lift event . Maybe dial indicator on lifter in
partially assembled engine, and plot it ? This problem will get worse, due to
parts hoards with no real history, and now they are very old piles
indeed. Thank you,--as I say comments
welcome. John
Grady __._,_.___ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
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