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When I painted my '65 300 several years back I did alot of the paint work myself using modern single stage enamel. I've painted several cars myself with single stage enamels and find them relatively easy to mix and spray and they give a very factory look in terms of depth and sheen. (Something I am generally after when I'm restoring a car)
It's important to consider what you want your car to look like when it's complete. Are you wanting it to look absolutely factory correct or to you want it to gleam? It's difficult to get a 'factory' look from a two stage system because you do get a glossy deeper finish. Add to that, many 'restorations' (using the term loosely) often end up getting color sanded and polished as well, you really can't call it a restoration at that point, in my opinion it's more customization. It's not a bad thing to utilize modern technology and techniques to make a cars paint appear nicer, protect better, and potentially last longer; but for a purist, it just may not look right. Along the same lines, if we want to keep these cars correct we'd also skimp on the chrome, not worry about the fit of body panels, overlook poorly finished leaded seams, and install mild steel exhaust systems that would rust out every three years as well. To get back on point, after having conversations with several experienced painters in recent years I've discovered two stage systems are generally much easier to apply with good results than single stage systems; they're more forgiving and require less skill/experience to acheive great results (dummy proof essentially). The problem arises when a painter who is used to applying a particular product or system tries to use another, such as a single stage. If they haven't got alot of experience with it, they'll be learning (or relearning) to paint on your car. The key is to ensure the painter spraying your car is an expert with the product, equipment, and environment they're working in, that they understand exactly what it is you're wanting in terms of color, shine, performance, etc., and that they'll stand behind their work if the result is unsatisfactory. Ryan Hill To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 10:44:30 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] paint
Hi Andy -
IMHO, the link applies to all commercial bodyshops, from the 'fast and furious' refinishers to restoration shops to hot rod painters that use three-stage paint.
If we're talking about what is correct for letter cars, the shop manual mentions 'baked super enamel' which is unavailable now and was unavailable back in the day. It was only used by the factory when the car was initially painted. So, IMHO, the next best thing is to simulate the look of BSE. An experienced painter should be able to do this thru learned 'tricks' such as adding a bit of color to the final clear coat in a two-stage paint job. Also, lightly buffing the clear coat will give it a nice shine, but it won't make it look a mile deep, as you would see on a corvette.
Shops should be able to spray either a single stage or two stage paint. When I had my Plymouth painted, my shop, which does collision as well as restoration work, discussed the advantages and disadvantages of each. They were willing to do either one. In terms of technique, I don't see where there would be a major difference between spraying a single vs. two stage paint. BTW, any shop worth its salt will order fresh paint + supplies for your expensive paint job.
For the water-based paints, there may be some differences in application technique. It is the responsibility of the shop to keep up on the latest technology. The owner of my shop regularly attends classes to keep up to date. As for the results, they should look the same as solvent-based paints.
Ron,
in somewhat frosty Hartford
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