Hi to all in 300sville! Well, it starts and runs but it still, you all know, still an issue with the transmission. Progress is slow because of .... $. My temporary situation will improve and I am scheduled to TOW my G down to El Cajon (I love Hagerty's free tows!!!) Anyways, yes, the cable still needs to be adjusted. When I talked to Greg, the owner of the tranny shop, he seemed a little less defensive this time and actually listened to me (a good thing because that is where I have the lifetime warranty). The little round flat adjuster on the side and down low on my tranny needs to be turned 1/4 to 1/2 ' clockwise because when it goes from Reverse to Nuetral it is still in Reverse. Before it would idle backwards in Nuetral so I know it has even gotten worse! The adjustment I think I was informed, is too far inward. That is why I'm towing her. I wonder about how much of a problem, if any, has to do with the slides behind my pushbuttons. Nuetral really needs to be pushed in and doesn't like to push back out Reverse in the process. If my push buttons are wearing out what is the best thing to do, replacement with whole mechanism including the slides or just a simple adjustment? On Wed. when I tow Melissa down to El Cajon we will make the adjustment then drive her to warm her up, and see if the tranny still does 3 to 1s at well over 40 mph. If it does, the shop will hopefully (need to) completly dismantle her trans, and I will bring them the '60 - '61 Chrysler/Imperial book(s) that I have somewhere up in my garage! This is the cast iron Torqueflite and wonderful members of this club even suggested them, so I thought that this particular tranny shop would perform the task flawlessly. However the same thing happens that was exactly going on with my entire OTHER and former trans rebuilt by an even other tranny shop! Anyways, another thing that bothers me is now I don't get full acceleration because another shop that solved my 'starting car' problem also affected how much I can accelerate. No kidding, it is like I have a governor. They said that my accelerator linkages where rubbing and sticking under my left air cleaner. They had to move the driver side (left) carburetor rod adjustment and move it all the way to the furthest, possible right portion of the 'adjusting oval slot' if you will. When I moved it back to where the original paint marking was, the idling went way to high! Can the Bell crank be adjusted in a way to get full acceleration again without compromising any other adjustments!? Thank you in advance and as always, I will keep you all informed sooner or later!! :-) Sincerely, 300ly, Brandt Jimerson and Family 300G 1958 Merc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/