RE: [Chrysler300] Water + Oil = Doomed!

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Matt/others
Sorry to be posting a reply again to something so soon, but if it helps avoid un-needed lost effort, 300ly time off the road, I hope it helps - but others more 413 qualified speak up where appropriate.
 
1) if a head gasket goes, it usually drops comps in two cylinders adjoining, NOT JUST ONE!? - yet you have only 1 low one, so maybe not a head gasket??!
2) Cadllac 390s - aka mid 50s thru '63 - always lose comp on cylinder 2 on driver's side first with miles/mileage - don't know if same applies to Mopar 413s, but cylinder 2 only being down 25 lbs may be normal for medium miles - AND MAYBE NOT A WATER ISSUE? And Bill is right, 25lbs not a worry unless racing.
3) Ford Windsors (289, 302 etc) can let water into sump/oil when front timing cover corrodes - do these 413s have front timing cover that water runs thru, possible leaks spots ?  Next question if not, do these motors have intake manifold/gasket issues, that can let water into sump unseen? Many V8s do, if corrode unseen.
4) other water leak sources other than heads - '60s Ford FE 390/428s had a block weakness that real rare let a crack next to cam gallery feed riser/line let water into oil/sump - anyone more Moparly know of any other 'non cracked head' source that might put water into sump/oil - AS IF MOTOR WAS RUNNING ON ALL 8 at time 'water in oil' noticed, I don't think I would pull motor until I find out where water coming from???
You could buy real cheap oil and filter, then change both, put plugs back in, run motor and see if water gets into sump real fast, or only when hot, or only overnight, or etc.
NO POINT REBUILDING SOMETHING THAT MIGHT STILL LEAK ONCE REBUILT IF SOURCE NOT KNOWN BEFORE PULLDOWN?!
If however 413s are prone to cracking heads, ignore this step, and just pull intake, check intake gaskets/leaks, then if nothing, then pull heads.
(And key point made by someone else - if you run it this way, you can find out which plug/cylinder is affected by water into that cylinder - if there is one, then that narrows search area/causes greatly - AND IF NONE, then that also eliminates head problem as a cause usually?!!!?
 
FINALLY IF I CAN OFFER ONE FINAL THOUGHT - BEWARE THE QUICK REBUILD/RESTO YOU PROPOSE - they near always get way bigger/longer/$$$$$s, and at best, it may be 2 plus years before car back on road - plus apart from owing too much, you then scared to use it as much as before?!
If however you have people real reliable/professional, who will give concrete price and time guarantees for alll that planned, maybe do it. 
 
Christopher/Australia

 



To: czbill@xxxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: allynentertainment@xxxxxxxxx
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 19:50:05 -0800
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Water + Oil = Doomed!


  



I have 50k on the motor.
I am getting ready to rebuild the entire front end, rear leafs and do the paint and chrome.
I guess pulling the motor and stripping the engine compartment is the better way to go.

Matt Allyn


________________________________
From: Bill Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: Matt Allyn <allynentertainment@xxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler List <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2012 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Water + Oil = Doomed!


Don't go so fast.  One thing to do is to squirt oil in the
cylinders, particularly No.2 and see if the compression comes up. 
If it does, that would possibly indicate bad ring seal.  If no
change, it  might indicate bad valve seal or head gasket seal. 
The latter two can be remedied without pulling the engine.

25 lb. differential between highest and lowest cylinders is not
acceptable in a new rebuild, but if the car is not burning excessive oil
you could run with that amount of difference for many years and never
know or feel it.

I would take it one step at a time and not be in a hurry to pull the
engine before it is indicated unless that is just something you want to
do or want to rebuild it.

Bill Huff

At 1/8/201208:30 PM, Matt Allyn wrote:

  
>
>Verdict is not good.
>I pulled the spark plugs and conducted a compression test.
>The readings are as follows...which lead me to believe it the block
itself:
>DRIVERS SIDE
>No. 1 = 175 pounds
>No. 3 = 160 pounds
>No. 5 = 160 pounds
>No. 7 = 165 pounds
>PASSENGER SIDE
>No. 2 = 150 pounds
>No. 4 = 172 pounds
>No. 6 = 163 pounds
>No. 8 = 165 pounds
>
>Time to pull ye old block.
>Oh the joy!
>
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>
> 

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