Re: [Chrysler300] Steering box issue

[Michael Moore <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx>]

Bob, I'm glad you found out what the problem was. How hard is it gong to be to fix? Does the box have to come out? Apart?
Mike Moore

On Sep 1, 2011, at 11:48 AM, Bob Jasinski wrote:

> Thank you to all that contributed feedback on my problem. Don Verity had
> the answer. I have a spare box here from a parts car, and the coupling that
> the steering shaft fits into is splined onto the input shaft to the steering
> box in a way that can be removed and repositioned on any spline position,
> it's not keyed. The rebuilder did not replace the coupler in the same
> position as it was when I sent the box to them, (yes I did make them aware
> of it). I'll need to drop the steering column yet again (4 times now) but
> am sure this will correct the situation. I am happy I don't have to remove
> the whole box and send it back though, very relieved at that. As I said, it
> is working fine, no leaks, no pulling to one side, just an alignment issue.
> 
> Bob J
> 
> 
> 
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Don Verity
> Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 7:06 AM
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Bob Jasinski
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Steering box issue
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> There is nothing inside the box that can change the steering wheel position.
> The coupling that connects the steering shaft to the box however does not
> have a master spline and has to be put on in the same place. It can't be
> moved off to much because of a hole that the roll pin goes through, but it
> could be enough to run out of adjustment on the tie rods. You will likely
> have to pull the column and reposition this coupling. 
> I recently took apart an old steering box, and they are actually not that
> difficult. To do a basic re-seal, you don't have to change any internal
> adjustments. There is a pre-load setting on the thrust bearing, but this
> doesn't need to be touched for a good clean and seal. I was going to send
> mine out, but now I think I'll do it myself. I will let everyone know how I
> make out. 
> 300ly,
> Don Verity
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Bob Jasinski 
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> 
> Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 12:46 AM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Steering box issue
> 
> I am having a fit trying to figure out why my car's steering wheel won't
> align properly now that my rebuilt steering box is back in the car. The
> box works fine, no noise or leaks, but I had it in the alignment shop today,
> and they can align the front end fine, BUT cannot get my steering wheel
> straight. Tonight I dropped the steering column again and removed and
> reinstalled the steering shaft 180 degrees from where it was in hopes that
> now the tie rod end threads won't bottom out before the steering wheel is
> straight. I have my doubts that this will work though. I spoke to the
> rebuilder and he says "we rebuild them to factory specs", although I will be
> calling him again if things don't work out tomorrow.
> 
> I've read the service manual to see if there is some internal gear timing
> that must be maintained, and if there is, I can't find it in the book. The
> pitman arm is splined, but has "keys" every 90 degrees, (and was marked by
> the rebuilder with two dots for proper installation alignment) so I can't
> just move it a spline or two. Also, the steering wheel cannot be moved at
> all because it is splined and keyed in one place, I'm sure this is to keep
> the turn signal cancelling cam aligned properly on the steering shaft. My
> alignment guy and I are both scratching our heads. Is it possible my tie
> rod ends somehow have been made with too short of a thread length cut into
> them? Has anybody run into this problem? 
> 
> Bob J
> 
> '61 300G with crooked wheel
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 



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