RE: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump
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RE: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump



While we are all thinking and commenting on water pumps, some additional points may be made.  The number of impeller blades is not the only indicator of coolant-moving capacity.  Impeller diameter and the relative diameters of the water pump and crankshaft pulleys are also important variables.  It is important that the original dimensions, design and configuration be maintained when replacing or rebuilding a water pump.

 

Another point would be that the number of fan blades and the design flow rates for a given water pump defines a significant part of the parasitic horsepower load on an engine.  Cooling system design is always a compromise between  parasitic load, first cost vs. operating economy (mpg).  These compromises don’t always produce satisfactory long-term performance.

 

Rich Barber

Brentwood, CA

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Thomas Cox
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 7:06 AM
To: Lettercars@xxxxxxx; Chrysler300
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump

 

  

Thanks to all for your suggestions and thoughts. I used the correct water pumps 
that were rebuilds of A/C water pumps for the 1960 413. The last one was a new 
NAPA pump that did have more blades on the impeller, but I don't see why it 
would fail. I have tightened the belts rather much, on the advice of my buddy 
that put most of the car together for/with me. He has been a mopar guy for his 
adult life; maybe that is the problem. 

Currently, I am traveling and can't try out the suggestions. A bent blade on the 
"new" fan might be a thought causing imbalance and I'll try to check the fan for 
balance. The thought that if the pulley didn't line up properly is indicative of 
other issues is also a good idea. 

I appreciate all the consideration given for my problem. As soon as I return, 
I'll get into it. Usually, it is a simple thing but this has been a bear to 
figure out. I'll keep you posted.

Tom Cox

 

________________________________
From: "Lettercars@xxxxxxx <mailto:Lettercars%40aol.com> " <Lettercars@xxxxxxx <mailto:Lettercars%40aol.com> >
To: tdcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:tdcox%40bellsouth.net> 
Sent: Wed, November 10, 2010 8:42:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump

Hi Tom:
Sorry to hear of your REALLY bad luck with your 300F.  I am not putting this out 
for the whole list server because I don't have a viable answer or suggestion.  
However, your statement:    "After arriving home, the engine was properly broken 
in and I began to 

increase
the speeds I drove."
made me wonder a bit.  Surely after the drive to and from Chicago the engine 
could be considered broken in, would it not?  What more would you want to do?  
What did this "proper break-in consist of?  Clearly the shimming is not the 
problem, as the trip back was uneventful, thankfully.   Also, I don't put as 
much stock it the proper tightening of the belt as one of the responders does.  
Additionally, the clutch on the fan automatically limits its rpms.  Did the 
clutch, by any chance lock up?  I am sure you have checked that.  I also assume 
you have looked at the running engine with the new water pumps installed and 
have noticed no irregularities.   

When I put the water pump in my "F", I remember having to grind a little off one 
or more of the impeller blades to avoid a slight interference with the housing.  
Wish I could be of more help.  Best of luck!
300ly, Gil

In a message dated 11/10/2010 3:09:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
tdcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:tdcox%40bellsouth.net>  writes:
I traveled to the Chicago meet in my F convert, during which I threw at least 
>two water pump belts. Upon arriving in Chicago, several guys that know a lot 
>more than I do about the F engine noticed that the fan pulley was not lined up 
>with the crank pulley. All suggested shimming out the fan  pulley which we did 
>by about 3/16”. I drove home and all seemed well; no belts thrown and car ran 
>fine.
> 
>After arriving home, the engine was properly broken in and I began to increase 
>the speeds I drove. Shortly thereafter, the water pump failed as I slowed down 
>from about 4,000 rpms. I did have another water pump in the trunk and I replaced 
>
>it. 
>
> 
>Within 50 miles, that water pump failed while driving about 60 mph on the 
>interstate, taking out the radiator. 
>
> 
>So, I bought a NAPA replacement water pump, replaced the water pump with failed 

>bearings, had the radiator repaired and installed, cranked it up and it idled 
>nicely for about 30 minutes, at which time I shut it down. Upon start-up, the 
>new NAPA water pump failed.
> 
>I am at a loss at what to do. The belts are not too tight. My only thought is 
>that shimming out the water pump may have put too much stress on the water pump 

>with a fairly heavy fan/clutch assembly. Any other suggestions?? I can’t afford 

>another radiator rebuild and I am afraid to drive the car any distance. I can’t 

>understand why I could drive the car nearly 1,000 miles with the shimmed out 
>pulley, yet I can’t keep a water pump operating without the bearings failing. 
>Help!!!
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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