Re: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump

[Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Water Pumps don't have blades, the fan attached to the clutch assembly, that
is subsequently attached to the pump have blades.
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Jerry Lindsay
Date: 11/10/2010 6:51:27 AM
To: tdcox 300aircleaners;  chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx;  christopher beilby
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump
 
  
When I recently got my 62-413 running, I replaced the water pump as I didn't

want or didn't know how good the old pump was. The first one I got had a 
hair line crack in it that my buddy helping spotted. Then the seconf one had

a different number of blades in it. I found out the A/C water pumps had 
different number of blades. I can't remember what that number was, but that 
the three A/c units were differnt then the non A/C ones.

Perhaps others members can shed a different light on it and that I just had 
different number of blades was a odd happening. At any rate, that's my 
story.

Jerry Lindsay

Seminole, Fl. Nice cool weather for a change.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "tdcox 300aircleaners" <tdcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 
<chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 2:58 AM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump

No one else said anything yet, so It might be total wrong, as it does not 
make sense even to me, but if it a new/rebuilt orig 60s motor, could it be 
post rebuild, you have now suddenly dislodged a heap of sludge/rust from the

lower block areas that has broken away while motor out/dry, and this has 
blocked the flow somewhere - or else something non rust/sludge, like the 
thermostat is jammed shut?!

Whatever the cause, it sounds like the pump is being overloaded, like the 
impellor is being 'turned off' by backed up/solid water?!!

Check thermo and then also top of radiator tank to see all little flow 
holes, tops of tubes, are clear, as start points.

Christopher in Australia - cool weather still amazing/weird for this time of

late spring, locusts slowed/stalled by the cold nights, so southern winter 
grain crops still going great so far and harvest just anout to start abd run

through to near xmas in some slower/cooler areas

To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: tdcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 10:51:05 -0800
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump

I traveled to the Chicago meet in my F convert, during which I threw at 
least
two water pump belts. Upon arriving in Chicago, several guys that know a lot
more than I do about the F engine noticed that the fan pulley was not lined 
up
with the crank pulley. All suggested shimming out the fan pulley which we 
did
by about 3/16". I drove home and all seemed well; no belts thrown and car 
ran
fine.

After arriving home, the engine was properly broken in and I began to 
increase
the speeds I drove. Shortly thereafter, the water pump failed as I slowed 
down
from about 4,000 rpms. I did have another water pump in the trunk and I 
replaced
it.

Within 50 miles, that water pump failed while driving about 60 mph on the
interstate, taking out the radiator.

So, I bought a NAPA replacement water pump, replaced the water pump with 
failed
bearings, had the radiator repaired and installed, cranked it up and it 
idled
nicely for about 30 minutes, at which time I shut it down. Upon start-up, 
the
new NAPA water pump failed.

I am at a loss at what to do. The belts are not too tight. My only thought 
is
that shimming out the water pump may have put too much stress on the water 
pump
with a fairly heavy fan/clutch assembly. Any other suggestions?? I can't 
afford
another radiator rebuild and I am afraid to drive the car any distance. I 
can't
understand why I could drive the car nearly 1,000 miles with the shimmed out
pulley, yet I can't keep a water pump operating without the bearings 
failing.
Help!!!

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