Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion

[Keith Boonstra <kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Just wanted to let y'all know -- A few minutes ago UPS delivered me a 
brand new Made in USA master cylinder.  It's a Dorman #M36063.  It looks 
to be a dead-on perfect replacement.  I paid $62.99 + $9.29 shipping 
from Parts Highway.  Fabulous deal!

Keith Boonstra

-

Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>  
>
>
>
> My 300C brakes have failed twice. Both times were at 20-25 mph with no 
> warnings.
>
> What worked for me?
>
> I'd rehearsed for that dreaded failure based on experiences with other 
> cars. 
>
> Steer toward any open space (consider lawns and open sidewalks )
>
> Press 1  to downshift (scrubs off a fair amount of speed)
>
> Pull handbrake. It works. Hearing now there could be parking brake or 
> driveshaft  damage, I would still
>
> trade that over body damage.
>
> Luck also helps.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: moparpjf@xxxxxxx <mailto:moparpjf%40aol.com>
> To: robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:robkern%40sbcglobal.net>, 
> hurst300@xxxxxxxxxx <mailto:hurst300%40hughes.net>
> Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 11:38:57 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
>
>  
>
> Query:
>
> Why not push the buttons for the lower gears (1 or 2)? Strikes me
> that downshifting the car into first or second would have a better 
> effect than
> having it in reverse with an automatic kick out into neutral.
>
> Pete Fitch
>
> In a message dated 4/21/2010 9:02:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:robkern%40sbcglobal.net> writes:
>
> Hello 300'ly to all!
> My Dad did the similar thing with tail gaters with our '57 DeSoto. He
> would gently push the reverse button to engage the back-up lights. Worked
> like a charm. The transmission has a safety default in that pushing the
> reverse button when in drive at speeds 15 mph or greater will move the 
> manual
> control lever to the neutral position and when the vehicle drops to less
> than 15 mph it will be necessary to reposition the R button. ROB KERN
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ray Jones
> Cc: Chrysler 300 Broadcast
> Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 6:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
>
> On Apr 21, 2010, at 12:37 PM, keboonstra wrote:
>
> And how about this related question. Suppose your brakes went out and all
> you now had was your parking brake to save you from certain mayhem. Would
> you pull the brake just a little to slow down gradually and risk 
> having it
> fade and become useless? Or would you pull it decisively so as to lock 
> it up
> before it has a chance to fade from overheat? Would pulling it too 
> hard at
> speed bust up the brake and leave you with nothing?
>
> >>> I seem to remember that the California Hi-way patrol tested cars 
> every
> year for suitability for use by them. Mopars failed the "Emergency stop"
> test regularly.
> I remember photos of the Driveshaft being snapped off, either leaving the
> car with nothing or actually dropping to the road and causing more
> problems.
> I also think that this was the reason Mopar went to standard rear drum
> emergency brakes, loss of sales of fleet cars. I think there is a Hot 
> Rod mag
> article on this test.
>
> Or how about hitting the "R" button at road speed? Is there a lockout to
> keep it from going to reverse at certain speeds? That maneuver may 
> possibly
> throw your car in a spin, but prudently done it might be better than
> coasting a half mile looking for a soft tree to stop you.
>
> >>> Won't work. My buddy had a new '57 Fury and he would push the "R"
> button if someone was too close.
> He also did this once at over 100 with some Bad Bikers chasing us and 
> they
> faded fast when those back-up lights came on!
>
> Ray
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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