Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
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Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion



As a person who has experienced MC failure, not 
on a 300, but on a couple of older Mopars, I can 
tell you that the car feels like you just pressed 
the gas pedal.  It's a terrible and helpless 
feeling, luckily for me didn't involve any 
collisions.  A couple of my old Plymdogs had 
emergency brakes so weak that I could drive off 
with the brake set and never know it till I saw 
smoke, so I don't consider that a reliable back up.

The failure mode that I have experienced was slow 
and almost invisible leakage of fluid till the MC 
was empty.  Empty means all the pumping in the world won't bring pressure.

For a trailer queen or seldom driven car, 
probably a sleeved MC would suffice, but for a 
regularly driven car my vote would be for a 
double MC.  Two systems are better than one.

Bill Huff



At 4/21/201001:37 PM, keboonstra wrote:
>
>
>
>I'm doing a high quality "driver restoration" to 
>factory correct on our 300C, and I am 
>considering the idea of converting to a dual 
>master cylinder system if I can work up enough 
>worry about the single cylinder system. I've 
>never had a problem with loss of braking in my 
>lifetime of driving, and have heard or read of 
>very few cases where it happened to someone.
>
>If I make sure I have a very well freshened 
>brake system throughout my car, how much concern 
>should I have about a single master? Changing to 
>dual would be my only concession to modernity 
>other than the installation of seat belts and 
>radials in my car, and I don't get pulled easily 
>over to the "updating" side in our old car 
>hobby. I really enjoy experiencing the way an 
>old car acts for the most part, but I want to 
>keep safety in mind as well. What do you think?
>
>And how about this related question. Suppose 
>your brakes went out and all you now had was 
>your parking brake to save you from certain 
>mayhem. Would you pull the brake just a little 
>to slow down gradually and risk having it fade 
>and become useless? Or would you pull it 
>decisively so as to lock it up before it has a 
>chance to fade from overheat? Would pulling it 
>too hard at speed bust up the brake and leave you with nothing?
>
>Or how about hitting the "R" button at road 
>speed? Is there a lockout to keep it from going 
>to reverse at certain speeds? That maneuver may 
>possibly throw your car in a spin, but prudently 
>done it might be better than coasting a half 
>mile looking for a soft tree to stop you.
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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