As a person who has experienced MC failure, not on a 300, but on a couple of older Mopars, I can tell you that the car feels like you just pressed the gas pedal. It's a terrible and helpless feeling, luckily for me didn't involve any collisions. A couple of my old Plymdogs had emergency brakes so weak that I could drive off with the brake set and never know it till I saw smoke, so I don't consider that a reliable back up. The failure mode that I have experienced was slow and almost invisible leakage of fluid till the MC was empty. Empty means all the pumping in the world won't bring pressure. For a trailer queen or seldom driven car, probably a sleeved MC would suffice, but for a regularly driven car my vote would be for a double MC. Two systems are better than one. Bill Huff At 4/21/201001:37 PM, keboonstra wrote: > > > >I'm doing a high quality "driver restoration" to >factory correct on our 300C, and I am >considering the idea of converting to a dual >master cylinder system if I can work up enough >worry about the single cylinder system. I've >never had a problem with loss of braking in my >lifetime of driving, and have heard or read of >very few cases where it happened to someone. > >If I make sure I have a very well freshened >brake system throughout my car, how much concern >should I have about a single master? Changing to >dual would be my only concession to modernity >other than the installation of seat belts and >radials in my car, and I don't get pulled easily >over to the "updating" side in our old car >hobby. I really enjoy experiencing the way an >old car acts for the most part, but I want to >keep safety in mind as well. What do you think? > >And how about this related question. Suppose >your brakes went out and all you now had was >your parking brake to save you from certain >mayhem. Would you pull the brake just a little >to slow down gradually and risk having it fade >and become useless? Or would you pull it >decisively so as to lock it up before it has a >chance to fade from overheat? Would pulling it >too hard at speed bust up the brake and leave you with nothing? > >Or how about hitting the "R" button at road >speed? Is there a lockout to keep it from going >to reverse at certain speeds? That maneuver may >possibly throw your car in a spin, but prudently >done it might be better than coasting a half >mile looking for a soft tree to stop you. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/