[Chrysler300] Re: should anyone want to see how a stock 300F wheel looks afte...

["richard_e_osborne" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Good evening,

I personally find this discussion of radials on tube tires to be silly. People seem to be trying to pin a few failures on one particular issue (radials vs. tubes). The real issue is that these wheels are 40 plus years old and probably on several different vehicles undergoing who knows what prior to landing on a particular collector car. How many of these wheels came from salvage yards and parts cars? It's old stuff, it breaks sometimes!

I drove my G across country and back with a set of Goodyear radials on original steel wheels. At times, there was spirited driving taking place (http://www.dicksrub.com). The car had been running for approximately 6 years prior to this trip. I had not checked the air pressure since I started driving the car and finally decided to do so while in Texas (I live in Columbus, Ohio). They required no air after 6 + years.

Radials are far superior tires to bias ply. When placed on solid wheels, you'll be fine.

Good evening.

Richard Osborne

--- In Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "George Riehl" <longrams@...> wrote:
>
> I have also run radials on bias rims for years, '61G, '64K, '63J, '64 Dodge & '65L with no problems, No "thrown" wheel covers. AND, these cars had/have been driven HARD! Inspecting rims (originals) is something by sight. Excessive rust outside and inside ads to the potential failure of the rim, no matter what tire is installed. Over the years, adding air to the tires without a water filter in the air compressor line will inject water/condensation into the inside of the tire/rim. A number of times, when purchasing an older car, dismounting the tires, there has/had been water inside causing major rust. It is obvious that the rim is compromised. Sealent materials injected into the tire, to prevent or repair small leaks, also leads to rim/tire failure. It contains water!
> It comes down to this, if the car body is visably rusted, replace with new material, it is obvious that one should not paint over it, and or that it is too thin to last. After sand blasting a rim, condition should warrant reuse or replacement.Basically, a good judgement call.
> Then there is the "new" proceedure for tire inflation.....nitrogen. No water, does not expand or contract with heat/cold.  Inflate to 32/36 #, stays there forever (excepting rim and punctire leaks).
>   George Riehl  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: moparpjf@... 
>   To: bob@... ; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
>   Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 12:45 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] should anyone want to see how a stock 300F wheel looks afte...
> 
> 
>     Larry:
> 
>   It looks like there is a fair amount of rust on that wheel. Was that 
>   there before the wheel split? What makes you think that the radials were 
>   responsible for the failure? As noted by others, many of us have been 
>   driving for thousands of miles on these with radials without any failures. 
>   While I don't deny the possibility, neither do I see any basis for assuming 
>   that causation. I am sure that wheels have failed without radials as well.
> 
>   Regards,
> 
>   Pete Fitch
> 
> 
>   In a message dated 8/17/2009 11:11:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
>   bob@... writes:
> 
>   http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/ljsplit/split.html
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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