[Chrysler300] Disregard if you are tired of tires

["Richard Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>]

I have several sets of 1955-56 Chrysler 300 wheel covers of which the metal
part is the same as for the Imperials of those years (only the plastic
centers are different). There a couple of indentations on the tabs by the
valve stem hole to wedge up against little nubs on the rims to prevent
rotation.  It appears that at least part of the problem is that the sharp
edges have worn off the gripper teeth and the job of taking a Dremel tool to
sharpen the 48 teeth was too intimidating. Has anyone actually tried that
and with any success?  The rounded teeth and the normal flexing of the rim
resulted in a lot of screeching and squawking but no tossed covers.  Now
that I have wire spoke wheels on the car, I can hear the spokes talking as I
roll along at slow speed while the rim is flexing and the 48 spokes
experience change in their tension and minute motion at the hub and rim.

The discussion has been interesting and informative.  On the issue of
moisture in the air in tires, the physics and thermodynamics of it are that
there is always some moisture in free atmospheric air with more water
content possible at higher temperatures.  We've lived in Houston, Texas and
Great Bend, Kansas and have experienced humidity ranging from near zero to
more than saturated (fog).  Moisture in the air is also much less at cold
air temperatures and we've experienced that, also.  The moisture enters the
air compressor with the air and has its temperature and pressure increased,
typically in two stages.  As the compressed mixture is cooled at constant
pressure, much of the moisture will condense and is readily removed.  So now
you may have compressed air at 100 psig plus, saturated with moisture, in
the tank.  As you connect the air hose to your tire, you are again reducing
the pressure back to 30 psig +/- and the mixture cools due to the expansion.

This results in some of the moisture condensing inside the tire.  Now you
have free water in the presence of compressed air (20% oxygen) and can
expect to have corrosion (oxidation) of steel.  Careful coating of the steel
rims with primer & paint will reduce corrosion, but the rim edges are
certain to be nicked during tire installation and removal processes and
provide locations for water to accumulate and corrode.  As the tire and its
air heat up under use, some of the condensed water will vaporize but never
really leave, except for osmosis which is a whole 'nuther subject and points
out that external air and moisture will slowly penetrate the tire and tube,
even if filled with dry nitrogen.  Further, it is necessary to fill and
purge a tire several times to reduce the original air content of the
nitrogen.  No matter how many times that is done, some oxygen and moisture
will remain.  The Goodyear/MetLife/Fuji blimps periodically have to have
their helium removed and repurified due to this action.

Moisture can be removed from compressed air by several methods, according to
the severity of the use.  Tire shops and service stations seldom, if ever,
dry their compressed air.  With a little luck, they will drain the condensed
water from their storage tanks periodically.  If not, you may get a little
free water with your not-always-free air.

Last points on wheels:  Wheel manufacturers have made numerous changes in
design over the years to address real and perceived issues of strength.  The
notes on increased weight and width of newer rims was enlightening.  A few
lawsuits over broken rims will hasten adding safety factor to a design.
This process has resulted in much safer wheels, cars, planes and roads over
the 54 years since the first Chrysler 300 was introduced.  Wheels are flexed
within design limits at every rotation.  50+ years of pot holes, trash on
the roadway, internal and external corrosion attack, curb rash, speed bumps
& etc. can be expected to take their toll on rims.  Inspect them and replace
them if signs of damage are noted.  Especially if bent rim edges are
present.  You can probably straighten a bent rim enough to hold air when
tubeless, but you may regret that action.

Keep 'em rollin', rollin', rollin'--safely!

C-300'ly,
Rich Barber (tire buster when the '55 C-300 came out, compressor and
corrosion engineer somewhat later--enjoyed both jobs)
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Originally equipped with 5.5" x 15" K flange Motor
Wheel stamped steel rims-apparently same as New Yorkers and Windsors--kind
of wimpy for a race car-Imperials had 6" & Crown Imps had 6.5" wide L flange
rims with larger bolt circle and bolts.)

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Andy Mikonis
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 12:31 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] proper way to not lose wheelcovers

This wheel discussion has been pretty interesting. One supposed "symptom" of
wheels flexing has been said to be the throwing of hubcaps, and some equally
interesting ways to keep them on have been offered. I think the real problem
is the clips on wheel covers need to be periodically adjusted, and most
people don't do it. If you install your own hubcaps, you'll probably
remember they are held on by numerous tabs, usually with serrated edges,
that are bent over into a u-shape. The spring tension of this bend makes the
tab bite into the wheel, but over the years of removing and installing them
the bend is flattened out and they don't bite the wheel as much. Then they
will turn and creak, and fly off.

Before you reinstall your wheel covers, turn them face down, grab a set of
slip-joint pliers (the longer the better), and go around and grab each
corner of each tab and give it a little bend out. If you've never done this,
you'll be surprised at how much more effort it takes to install the wheel
cover, and how much more positive the grabbing action of the tabs feels.

This applies to most of our 300 wheel covers. The 300K wheel cover is a
little different (and possibly the '55-'56, too, can't remember.) The
"teeth" are more like holes punched in a band that goes around. Doesn't
clamp as well, but can still be adjusted by carefully bending the whole band
and/or the individual teeth out.

I'll bet my Club News editor salary that if you do this, your wheel covers
won't creep or fly off. And you won't need wet paint, silicone or bolts.
Where did I pick up this tip? I worked in a hub cap shop in high school!

Andy Mikonis
in steamy Chicago


      


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