This is an important question that has been asked and answered numerous times. Three adjustable factors. Toe, Camber and Caster. All effect how the car goes down the road. Toe and/or camber out of whack can wear tires. Way too much or way too little caster and car will wander. No front end can be aligned properly if there are loose or bent parts or bushings are worn out. Or, if ride height is not correct. No alignment will make bias ply tires track like a quality set of radials. Most vintage cars I have dealt with benefit from as much positive caster as can be achieved. Must be equal side to side and this can be difficult. Camber will change with loading so some checking on an alignment rack will determine whether staic setting should be + or - or how much. I generally start + no more than one degree. Toe with radials should never be + (toed out) and 1/16" total toed in is generally not too much but zero is what is desired running down the road. Car will wander like a pig with toe out. Bias tires like some toe and a car should work well at 1/8" toe in. Just had a fellows truck in here that checked out at 7/16" toe in: way, way too much. Major player local tire shop that set it up that way also piut new tires on the truck. Point is, find a qualified alignment shop. That truck will wear tires REAL FAST. Front end alignment can be accomplished accurately in a home garage. Scribe marks on the tires and rolling the car back and forth and toe can be set very accurately with a good tape measure. Getting the steering wheel to be on center driving straight ahead will take some time. Camber can also be adjusted with a digital protractor and some enginuity. Caster, well, you need tools but if it isn't correct R to L car will pull and tell you which side is off. Car will push away from side with high caster and pull toward side with positive camber. Some R to L bias may be needed to correct for old age etc. Bad radial tires also induce pull/drift. For torsion bar cars, ride height, caster, camber then toe adjust. In my opinion, if a person is dealing with an alignment tech that needs specs to align say a '60 Chrysler ( except maybe ride height), that person is definately in the wrong shop. Warren Anderson Sedona,AZ Hi Group: Am I correct in assuming that the alignment specs are the same for the G as for the F? Also, I remember that one of the specs should be as far as possible without interfering with the other, but I don't know whether it is maximum camber or caster. Will somebody be kind enough to remind me??? Thanks, Pete Fitch **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220814852x1201410738/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26 hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/