Re: [Chrysler300] BlueStreaking

[Edward Mills Antique Tractors <millserat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Warren Anderson wrote:
>
> Edward,
>
> You say that back in the day there was no extra charge for mounting 
> the run flats of the time. As I understand what is happening now with 
> the 'dubs' and run flats on passenger cars is that tire shops that 
> handle rthe special 22" wheels and all do charge extra which is 
> smart,in my opinion. In our shop we will work with 20 and 22.5" truck 
> tires and have mounted run flats for Hummers with all the grease and 
> mess with, believe me, "some extra charge".
>
> Warren Anderson
> Sedona,AZ
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 
Not much specialization back then - as pointed out mostly hand tools a 
mechanical bead breaker, 2 spoons and a rubber hammer would change 
anything to last of 1956 which were 15 inch. When 14's came in, we had a 
lot of problem with tighter fitting tires and deeper wheels - the GM 14 
inch wheels would just about kill a 10 year old trying to break them the 
old way - had to get an adult to break them and even they had problems. 
I remember when we got our first Tire Changer - what an improvement - it 
would do everything except the VW with the large center hole - and later 
the similar Pontiacs.

Also no computers or automated registers - so you tried to keep the 
charges simple. Truck tires 17 inch and above - almost always split 
rims, big PITA but one price. Car tires one price to repair - no charge 
to mount new tires unless you wanted static balance and that was $1.25 
including weights. And if you had a problem, you ate it. But everything 
was relative - low ball tires typically advertised for $11.95 (6.70-15 
or 6.00-16 tube type) sometimes as low as $9.95 but you really did not 
want to buy these as they were 3rd or 4th grade - assuming original 
equipment was 1st grade.

Probably should have charged more for tube type tires as they were a lot 
of hassle and if you did not know what you were doing, you sometimes 
ended up with pinched tubes and had to do-over. You mounted bottom bead 
then inserted tube. Trick was to put just a little air in tube with 
valve removed to unfold and give shape - then use valve tool to hold 
stem in place and push tube down and back before mounting second lip of 
tire - then inflate and let air out and put valve in and reinflate - 
that kept "folds" in tube from becoming a problem. Other problem was 
oversized tubes - if you had stretched tube by putting it in larger 
tire, it never regained original size and you typically had folds that 
would wear thru as tire flexed.

But hat was the good old days - life was simple - and wheels next to 
impossible to damage.

best, Ed



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