[Chrysler300] timing issue

["Ulf Larsson" <ulf.larsson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Billlll and group
 
My opinion;  Check the original "0" , TDC mark on damper.  Known of to turn in the vulcanization inbetween the two metal halfs.  George Riehl will provide you with a correct one if need be or if it stay turned in the same (wrong) position you can make your own new actual TDC marking and time after this mark instead.  To check if marking on damper is still at TDC you need only to start close to the original marking when #1 is in position to fire- the rotor points towards spark cable for#1, remove # 1 spark plug and use a wooden stick/pencil or something put in there instead (a HEMI is the greatest).  Slowly turn the engine both ways and where stick/pencil reaches highest point you´ll have the true TDC and compare to marking on the damper.  I belive you´ll find them to be different in this case.  Make a new mark and take it from there.  Check again in a week/month and make sure that the new TDC marking is still in the very same place if you decided for to keep the original damper.  If moved again= change the damper.
   
Agree with Ron in his comment that you´ll have to block off vacuum advance line (at foot of carb) when doing the timing.
 
F.Y.I ; I run my 300 C with about 13 degree advanced timing (ground timing)  to get the outmost of the power it can provide.  Cam belived to be slightly hotter than stock,  +0,40" and shaved heads.  Modern fuel with ethanol content does part of the trick, but pls be aware that vacuum advance function or actually total advance incl ground, vacuum and mech can get too much when running that high ground advance.  I have currently blocked oft the vacuum advance completely (vacuum advance is for fuel economy reasons mainly) but you can also put a stronger spring or more shims (I´m at 5 now and perhaps enough to hook up the vacuum line again) in the distributor where vacuum line hooks up too.  You´ll notice if vacuum bring up the total advance too high if running in highway speed and then lift off the throttle and just cruise in speed,  if too much advance in total the feel of a slight hesitation/kick back is indication vacuum advance now makes total advance too great. The mech advance can also be altered through a change of springs under the pointer plate.  Stronger springs equals to less mech advance.
 
This is how I would have made it; You can easily check total advance, the max one, and both with or without vacuum advance function blocked off.  Just attach a tacho and the timing light ( this is now after you have checked that TDC mark on damper is in correct place and that you have extended markings into the 40-45 degree range,  BTDC).    At about 2500-3000 rpm you shall have max advance of timing and it shall not exceed 40-45 degrees in total.   Rev it higher to make sure no further advance.
 
Last but not least;  KEEP fingers, hair, sleeves, timing light etc  away from the rotating fan. 
 
Good luck.  I belive you will find a problem with the position of your stock TDC marking/ BTDC/ATDC scale.   Pls let us know about your findings.
 
+++
 
Warning;  A lot (3 complete sets found so far) of aftermarket solid lifter kits for 392 HEMI have found to be causing problems.  Buyers beware.  More info will follow as soon as we have had a comment from the US supplier.  Anyone else already also faced this problem?    Problem can be described as the mating area in the lifter for the push rod can´t be all correct on these subj lifters.  The bottom radius is not corresponding to the tip of a stock push rod and made rather like a cone shape.  Have proven to rapidly eat the tip of the push rods, stock for solid lifters type ones/big ball as the tip and valve clearance gets out of intentional when the push rod sinks lower into the lifter from massive wear.  The push rods rapidly wear to a different shape of the tip and are total scrap.
  
 
Best regards
Ulf Larsson, Sweden 3N57 2660           


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