Re: [Chrysler300] Radiator problems

["Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

  If your radiator leaked once, it will leak again. Water pump seals will fail and intermittantly leak but from your report, the leak evidence was out from the front of the radiator which is not where most water pump failures are seen. 

  Copper, brass radiators can be cleaned and repaired. Shops that repair radiators are becoming scarce. Patch repairng an old radiator may not be advised anyway.

  Tank seam leaks and hose nipples, upper and lower, may be able to be repaired. Tube leaks at the headers and leaks in the tubes between the headers aren't fixable and a new radiator or at least a new core will be required. Blocking off split tubes cures leaks but decreases radiator cooling capacity. 

  Radiator tanks can develope splits or holes also. Tank splits are normally related to metal fatigue so patching will be a short term fix. A radiator that is plugged up will see excessively high pressure and temperature in the top tank and this will lead to split seams and cracked tanks. A lot of old cars end up with a new core and reused tanks because that's all that can be done. 

  With a lot of vehicles, it becomes necessary to at least loosen the fan shroud and radiator from its mounting so that a complete inspection of the radiator can be done.  Coolant residue is most times visable.

  Ethylene glycol antfreeze, BTW,  I think is accepted best, and from my research, for soldered copper, brass radiators; 50% with purified (reverse osmosis) water, not distilled. Tap water in some areas might be better than distilled some have found. Nice new 180 deg stat to keep engine temp up high enough to thwart sludging, and good to go. 

  Warren Anderson
  Sedona,AZ

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