Re: [Chrysler300] 440 300 Problem

[whuff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>]

The original rod is still in my 440 '67 GTX. On the other hand, I had 
to change out the rod in my 1970 Chrysler 300 as well as in my 1958 
DeSoto 350.  The DeSoto was so peened over it took literally hours to 
get it out. The Chrysler was working when I overhauled the engine, 
but it was also so peened over I had to make a bent drift rod to 
drive it out.  I don't know if it is a metallurgical problem or maybe 
due to float when the pump spring gets weak.

Bill Huff

At 9/11/200707:09 PM, Ryan Hill wrote:
>Now I'm jumping ion on this one. I have a very similar problem with my 383
>in my '65 300 Sport. Some of you may recall my woes with this engine since
>it's rebuild.....it still won't run well at all, I've tested and replaced
>pretty much everything and it still haunts me. In one of my recent attemps
>to resolve the problem I discovered that once again I have a fuel delivery
>problem.
>
>All of a sudden, no fuel getting to the carb. Added fuel to the tank,
>nothing. Pulled the line off at the carb and fired the car on prime a few
>times, nothing. Ran a line direct from pum inlet into a bottle, nothing!
>
>Fuel pump is new but tried others from my collection of spares and no luck.
>Now I'm going to take the advice of club members I received ages ago and
>swap out the push rod but every parts guy looks at me like I'm crazy saying
>those would never wear out enough to not pump the plunger. I find it hard to
>believe myself, especially on a car that ran great before I rebuilt the
>engine and has only 75k original miles on it. My other B / RB engines have
>had twice the milage and the abuse and I never encountered the problem
>before.
>
>Does anyone have any proof they wear out? Has anyone compared measurements
>to a new one? Convince me this isn't just a futile effort even though it's
>really only about a 20 minute job and likely inexpensive.
>
>
>
>Ryan Hill
>
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