Ryan, It's doubtful this is the problem because you said you replaced the condenser, but I remember helping someone with a similar stalling problem on a '66 Buick. This was probably in the early to mid '70s. The car would start and then immediately stall. I just happened to touch the condenser wire inside the distributor and the end of the wire just came right out of the body of the condenser. It was able to make contact when there was no vibration, but when the engine was started it obviously broke contact. Replaced the condenser and the car ran just fine. Probably not your problem, but thought it was interesting to share. Don Warnaar New Jersey ----- Original Message ----- From: Ryan Hill<mailto:ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 12:29 PM Subject: [Chrysler300] Still Starts Then Dies - '65 300 Friday update Morning everyone. A quick update for anyone interested. I had a few minutes last night to try a few things. I started the car remotely from under the hood and while it was running, fed a trickle of fuel into the carb to see if I could keep it running. (I'm a pro at this now so I know I fed it enough fuel) It didn't seem to help much but did prolong the stalling a little. I immediately removed the carb from the engine and noted there was still fuel pressure at the hard line connection into the carb. I assure everyone, there is NOT a fuel supply problem of any kind. I believe I've also adequately ruled out the ignition system as I have good spark, good dwell, good timing, and voltage readings everywhere are normal when the engine dies(sorry...stalls). Once the carb was removed I pulled it apart and checked the fuel levels in the bowls. Both were equal and seemed normal. I tried plunging the pump rod and found there to be no squirting.(Yes, there was fuel in the cylinder) I thought I'd corrected this problem earlier but perhaps not! I removed the throttle squirter in the primary venturi to expose the small needle that sits inside. It appears the needle is sticking and not allowing fuel to be pumped out the squirter when the plunger is pushed down. I used a small wire to loosen the needle then shoved the plunger down again.........now the squirter works. This could certainly explain the engine not wanting to rev when I open the throttle plates but I don't think it would explain the engine stalling at idle. Can anyone shed any light on how this needle operates and what might be causing it to stick? Is there any way to determine which jets should be used in the primary and which in the secondary so I can ensure I got those right? I suspect the metering rods might be closing off the fuel supply completely as the vacuum rises as a few members have suggested. Hopefully I'll have happy news to report over the coming weekend. Ryan Hill (Vancouver, B.C.) To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm<http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm> Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Get fast access to your favorite Yahoo! Groups. Make Yahoo! your home page http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/8LmulB/TM --------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/