Re: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 639

["Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxx>]

Just returned home. What was this about?

W

----- Original Message -----
From: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 6:15 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 639


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There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. 19th Annual Mopars in the Park
From: Marshall R Larson <yelof@xxxx>
2. 300 illustration
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxx>
3. Gauge Face Restoration Question
From: mwl1967@xxxx
4. RE: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxx>
5. Re: Leaky Torqueflite
From: "Thomas L. DeBusk" <cfdebusk@xxxx>
6. Re: 300 illustration
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxx>


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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 09:19:36 -0500
From: Marshall R Larson <yelof@xxxx>
Subject: 19th Annual Mopars in the Park

Does anyone know anything about the "19th Annual Mopars in the Park"
mentioned in Old Cars Weekly? It's scheduled for May 31/June 1 at
Raceway Park in Minnesota.

Marshall

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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 15:19:39 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxx>
Subject: 300 illustration

Somewhere Someone did a reasonably nice rendition of an
odd Colored and color combination of a 300-C.
It is Suitable for a computer screen wallpaper.
I will e-mail it to anyone that is interested in it!

--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy


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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 18:58:28 EDT
From: mwl1967@xxxx
Subject: Gauge Face Restoration Question

Greetings everyone,

Can someone tell me how to
match the
color / finish on the gauge faces. I took the speedo to a local
paint supplier
who looked at it... thought it may have been an anodized finish but
wasnt sure.
I took it home and tested a spot on a bad gauge with some laquer
thinner and
it removed the greenish hue down to bare metal. Doesnt look like
there was
any primer applied.

Was this a translucent paint?
Laquer?
Im told that the scan tool they use to try to match paint wont work
on this.
Any suggestions as to where to get them done or how best to match
the finish
is appreciated. Oh... working on a K ( think these had a lighter
color than
the J ) .. am unfamiliar with other years.

Thanks
Mike Laiserin


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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 18:00:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxx>
Subject: RE: 300H Fuel problem - answer

Mark,

Is it possible the rocker arm shafts are installed
backwards, causing the lack of oil on the top end?
If you have access to a shop manual there is a diagram
showing the correct installation.The 2 wide brackets
each have an oil groove that must be installed with
the oil feed grooves facing the pushrod side of the
rocker arms. The oil feed holes are 15 degrees off
from the center line of the bolt going thru the
bracket and the oil hole is only 3/16th of an inch so
if they are installed wrong there is no oil to the
rocker arm shafts. The only oil supply to the rocker
arm shafts comes from the #4 cam bearing and is not
full pressure but is an intermitent supply as holes
drilled thru the camshaft journal line up with holes
in the cam bearing. Have the cam bearings been
replaced? If the holes in the bearing aren't lined up
with the holes in the block it can louse up the upper
end oiling. The chatter you hear could be rocker arms
rattling on the shaft instead of being cushioned by
oil.
This should have no effect on the fuel pump cam on the
front of the camshaft or the pushrod as they are oiled
from oil slinging off the crankshaft and rod bearings
as well as the front camshaft bearing. If cam bearings
have been installed it is also possible the oil holes
weren't lined up which also could prevent the pushrod
from being properly lubricated. I doubt if the
hardness, or lack thereof was a defective pushrod; but
the heat generated by metal against metal without
lubrication can soften hardened metal in a hurry. The
fuel pump cam is between the front cam journal and the
distributer drive gear on the camshaft. You might
consider pulling the distributer and see if the gear
that runs on the cam gear is running dry also and if
so, and if the engine holds good oil pressure, that
front cam bearing either was improperly installed or
has turned in the block and is preventing it from
receiving oil. Another possible cause of lack of
lubrication in the top of the engine would be if the
connecting rods were not installed so the v-groove in
the cap is pointing up. This allows excess oil to be
directed upward to provide lubrication to the under
side of the pistons, wrist pins, cylinders and
camshaft and the bottom of the lifters. Pardon me for
rambling on, but it sounds like you have more than one
problem and the two could all trace back to cam
bearings.
In a nutshell, the fuel pump pushrod gets its
lubrication from the crankcase area and the rocker
arms from oil supplied thru #4 cam bearing, and the
only common thread is that part of the pushrod
lubrication comes from oil being pumped thru #1 cam
bearing flowing from the bearing back onto the lobe
that drives the pushrod. If your oil pump were the
problem, you would have had crankshaft bearing
problems long before wearing 1/4 inch off the pushrod.
How many miles does your engine have? Do you know if
it has been worked on and if so, what was done and how
long before the pushrod problem showed up? Has the oil
pump ever been replaced? If not and if it's weak on
pressure, I have had good luck with Melling
High-volume pumps.
--- Mark Souders <souders@xxxx> wrote:
> Good Morning Group,
> I managed to get the push rod out last night without
> much difficulty. I
> used a wood chisel to pry it out. After a small
> burr cleared the hole, it
> came right out. It was worn down by about 1/4 inch
> from the top of the rod.
> I pulled a valve cover and found out why the rod was
> worn. There was no oil
> on top of the engine. This explains the lifter
> chatter, too. I pulled the
> rods and lifters and there is no visible signs of
> excessive wear, as a
> matter of fact, there are no signs of any wear
> except on that push rod. So
> in addition to needing a pump push rod, looks like
> I'm gonna need a new oil
> pump too. I'm going to check the Rockwell on the
> push rod, does anyone know
> what the spec is for hardness of the rod?
> Thanks for all the advice and tips,
> Mark Souders
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: elmer tuuri [SMTP:eltuuri@xxxx]
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 10:20 PM
> > To: crossram@xxxx;
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem -
> answer
> >
> > Does a worn pushrod make noise [knock]? We
> diagnosed with a stethescope a
> > noise coming from
> > fuel pump-- no noticeable loss of power. I had a
> 55 ford once [in late
> > 50's]
> > Seemed to be same
> > problem-- changed pump- noise gone. Ordered new
> pump. Should check pushrod
> >
> > too I guess
> > 78 NY -400
> > Elmer Tuuri
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxx>
> > >To: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxx>,
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >Subject: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - answer
> > >Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:21:11 -0400
> > >
> > >To all, re fuel pump problems:
> > >
> > >It is not tremendously hard to hook up a fuel
> pressure gauge,
> > temporarily,
> > >in-line, and drive the car while observing the
> gauge. Loss of pressure at
> > >higher RPM's under load will certainly pinpoint
> the problem to a fuel
> > >starvation issue, and save lots of diagnostics
> time. Other starvation
> > >causes
> > >can be a clogged fuel sock in the tank pickup, as
> well as rusty lines, or
> > >(let's not overlook the obvious) a clogged filter
> ! Blowing some
> > compressed
> > >air back into the fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump
> (WITH GAS CAP OFF!!!)
> > >should eliminate blockages and unclog the sock to
> some degree. Don't go
> > >nuts with the air pressure !
> > >
> > >While not "original", an electric fuel pump is a
> wonderful addition to
> > any
> > >car.. I have one in my 300G convert, and it makes
> starting the car a
> > snap,
> > >especially after it has been sitting for weeks or
> months. It probably
> > saves
> > >a lot of wear and tear on starter, and other
> components. The car does not
> > >have a regular fuel pump; it does have an in-line
> fuel pressure
> > regulator,
> > >though !
> > >
> > >Summit Racing's Fuel Pressure regulator, or some
> similar item, should be
> > >used with any electric fuel pump. There are many
> different types,
> > >adjustable
> > >from 3 psi to 12 psi. Cost is as low as $34
> bucks. Check out Summit's #
> > >SUM-G3131 at
> > >
> > >
> >
>
<http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=by
summit
> > par>
> > >t&searchtype=both&part=SUM-G3131
> > >
> > >With regards to Mark's problem - when there is a
> will, there is a way,
> > you
> > >should be able to get that sucker out, even if it
> is somewhat mushroomed,
> > >and even though the clearances are relatively
> close where the rod goes
> > >through the block. It certainly is an indication
> that something is wrong
> >
> > >in
> > >that the rod refuses to come out !
> > >
> > >John Hertog
> > >Sag Harbor NY
> > >
> >
> >
>
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 23:16:24 -0400
From: "Thomas L. DeBusk" <cfdebusk@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Leaky Torqueflite

I've heard of this fix, too, but I thought it was more on the order
of a
teaspoon. Brake fluid swells the seal. It's not a permanent fix, but
it
probably works for some period of time. I'd check around plenty to
get
the quantity right. Too much of a good thing.

Thomas

pennsy300@xxxx wrote:
> A grizzled old-timer, who owned a 300D convert while I was still
in college,
> said his experience showed that a pint or so of brake fluid poured
into the
> transmission would "soften and expand" the front seal, where mine
appears to be
> leaking, with no other ill effects on the transmission. Any
thoughts out
> there on this suggested "fix?" McTaggart
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 21:49:36 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxx>
Subject: Re: 300 illustration

I don't know if I can let my P-51 Mustang go. Gary barker

paul holmgren wrote:

> Somewhere Someone did a reasonably nice rendition of an
> odd Colored and color combination of a 300-C.
> It is Suitable for a computer screen wallpaper.
> I will e-mail it to anyone that is interested in it!
>
> --
> Paul Holmgren
> Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
> 2 57 300-C's in Indy
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



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