Re: [Chrysler300] Re: 300C Hubcap

[Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxx>]

Reference the Hubcap "walking". I just used to put a bead of elec weld on
the rim in the clamp or tabg area. You have to index it so the cap is
centered on the valve stem, and if you wish you can spot several weld ridges
around the rim. It dosen't hurt anything, you paint over it and it keeps the
cap from walking. The bigger the spinner (like on the '66's) the more it
wants to walk.
Of course, give the tangs a tweek before to increase tension putting the cap
back on.
See All Y'all in the spring.
Ray Jones

> From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxx>
> Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 07:51:01 -0600
> To: "Thomas Miller" <tfm@xxxx>
> Cc: "Intl 300" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Re: 300C Hubcap
> 
> I think Thomas is correct that there is no reference to the basic
> two C hubcap styles in the C Handbook. I know I wrote something at
> one time and I'm virtually certain it was in early editions of the
> Book but it must have gotten dropped sometime in all the editing and
> rearranging that has gone on over the years and editions.
> 
> There were indeed two basic appearances of 300C hubcaps. The
> presumption is that there were two suppliers to the factory for the
> hubcaps. It does not appear to have been a running change at some
> point in the production year.
> One has a hollow cast pot metal center where the three "wings" or
> "flippers" (my preference) are cast onto the center cone. This
> style cap is by far less common than the second type. It is similar
> to the 300D hollow cast pot metal center but without the center hole
> for the D's plastic medallion.
> The second type has a stamped stainless center and three chromed pot
> metal wings or flippers that are kept in place by a short stud or
> post and a screw for attachment.
> 
> Beyond these two basic types, George Riehl has proven to me with
> photos that there are several variations that are most easily
> noticeable from the back or wheel side of the hubcap but these are
> not immediately relevant to the current discussion. The existence
> of these other variations is probably not a case of a larger
> multiple of suppliers to the factory but rather minor engineering
> changes during the year for ease of assembly by the two basic
> suppliers.
> 
> For a couple of years John Lazenby and I offered perfect
> reproductions of the flippers through the club publications. We
> only had one hundred cast and chromed and because it took 2 years
> plus to sell those few (and keep a set of 12 per car each for
> ourselves) we had no more cast. We really thought there was a
> market for them because of them being prone to badly pitting.
> 
> One aside here. I do not agree that Mr. Miller's hubcap is rotating
> on the wheel due to imbalance of the cap due to one missing flipper.
> It is far more likely that the problem is tire and wheel balance and
> that due to the hubcap having been on and off wheels many times in
> 46 years that the tangs holding it have become less able to hold the
> cap in place. The cap should be addressed with a pair of pliers to
> bend the tangs for greater pressure against the wheel. That and a
> rebalance still might not be the solution as the stainless of the
> hubcap is fatiguing from age and mounting. In that case a bolt down
> steel valve stem is the answer.
> 
> It is mentioned in the Technical Talk chapter of the C Handbook
> under Hub Cap Availability, that the " '57 Imperial LeBaron hubcaps
> are physically identical to the 300C hubcaps with the exception of
> the Flag Red painted center" of the C hubcap.
> 
> I'll get back into my C Handbook Authenticity file today and make
> sure that further printings of Sixth Edition once again include a
> paragraph or two on the two basic styles of C hubcap. Thanks to
> Thomas for bringing this to my attention!
> 
> Wayne
> 
> 
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