Thanks to all the 300 fire-by-wire experts that responded to my recent query. Some were surprised at the positive ground claim, but that is what the 1955's and earlier were. Even the 12-volt Crown Imperials were positive ground in 1955. I recall old time differences of opinions by Chrysler, Ford and GM on which polarity produced the best spark and least erosion of spark plug tips. In the 50's we had to be on our toes as different family lines of cars had different ground conventions and an error in jumper or charger cables would produce some pretty exciting sparks and the smell of burning rubber. Input from members indicates the reversed battery phenomenon has been seen before as current mechanics get used to everything being negative ground. Here are the results: I removed and reversed my 6-volt battery so that the ground cable is connected to the +positive terminal. Jumpered the Field to Battery lugs at the voltage regulator for three seconds to polarize the generator (did not get any noticeable spark here as I expected and remembered). Then tried to start the car and no spark. Called a great friend and long-time mechanic Ralph Trent in our seniors community for consultation. He arrived five minutes later., responding like a fire horse to the bell. Removal of the distributor cap indicated a broken rotor, so called local NAPA and they had SIX in stock!. Can't relate the rotor failure to the polarity reversal and wonder how it was even working before. May have busted it getting the stuck cap off. They had a rotor and I asked for points condenser & cap, also. My store only had the rotor and condenser-ordered out the rest. Wondering if I have the proper cap as clips do not snap into place, being too long. Difficult to impossible to feel the cap notch into place on the distributor. Put the rotor on. No fire. Reversed the leads on the coil connecting the hot wire from the ignition to the - negative terminal and the small wire from the distributor to the + positive terminal. Ralph returned home for ignition wrenches and specialty screwdriver to hold the stinking little condenser clamp screw. He replaced the condenser and it fired right up. Putting out 6.98 volts and full over to the + on the ammeter. Hope I have not upset the voltage regulator. I guess its time for me to buy a nice little set of ignition wrenches after all these years. Wrench wouldn't work on the stinking little screw holding the condenser lead. Took it off and on with needle nose pliers, as the last ten mechanics obviously did. I can't explain it, but feel the reversal of polarity damaged or shorted the condenser. No explanation for the broken rotor other than ham-handed mechanicing on my part. Did not get the radio or gas gage going, but I feel there may be other problems there. At least we got it running for a show in French Camp, CA tomorrow. Thanks to my good friend and great mechanic, Ralph, and to NAPA for having some of the parts in stock on Saturday afternoon. Onward and upward and MoPa'r to ya from Rich Barber Brentwood 94513 C-300 ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about buying or selling a car. FREE Quotes, 360° Tours, Research, Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA/YiGOAA/8LmulB/TM --------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/