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There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: 392 fan belts
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: 300G California emissions package
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
4. fuel pump pushrods
From: GERALD OLSON <olson77@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. 57 C Door Panel Inserts
From: David R Geise <daverg@xxxxxxxx>
6. question about tire pressure
From: "car man" <carbuyer02@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: 300G California emissions package
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: question about tire pressure
From: "D'Aloise, Lawrence Jr." <ldaloise@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: question about tire pressure
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: 300G California emissions package
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: 300G California emissions package
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Sqealing belt on generator.
From: "L.Andrew Jugle" <lajugle@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
15. California emissions package
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: 300G California emissions package
From: "Langendorfer" <langendorfer@xxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: California emissions package
From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. PCV valve
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. RE: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Flanged bushing burnishing tool
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Flanged bushing burnishing tool
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 08:25:54 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
>rocker arm shafts. The only oil supply to the rocker
>arm shafts comes from the #4 cam bearing and is not
>full pressure but is an intermitent supply as holes
>drilled thru the camshaft journal line up with holes
>in the cam bearing. Have the cam bearings been
>replaced? If the holes in the bearing aren't lined up
>with the holes in the block it can louse up the upper
>end oiling. The chatter you hear could be rocker arms
>rattling on the shaft instead of being cushioned by
>oil.
There is a short shaft between the distributor and the fuel pump. This shaft
runs in a flanged bronze (?) bushing that is a press fit in the block (IMHO
should always be replaced when engine is apart). It is not pressure
lubricated. If lube oil flow is not properly directed in the upper valve
train area, this bushing will fail. We have been out of town riding north of
the Grand Canyon for the last 5 days so may have missed notes on this
subject. The Merritt Message I did find otherwise covers it all very nicely.
BTW Chrysler had some problems with this bushing in there SB V8's & possibly
some V6's in Dakota applications just a few years ago.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 08:42:19 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 392 fan belts
>Seems I have created a 60MPH governor on my C. Every time I exceed 60 the
fan belt squeals. I'm pretty sure it is the generator belt since there is a
black smudge on the under side of the hood above the generator(single belt
that goes from fan to generator.
Went out to check a dump truck last Friday that was dead with a broken off
water pump (at the block); large bang at highway speed and broken off pump
laying in the shroud (and torn off fan pieces all over and a large hole in
the radiator). My diagnosis was that the engine cooling fan was overdriven.
This truck should have had a thermal fan clutch that would have limited fan
speed. The 18" diameter and heavy OE fan was designed to turn only so fast.
Front engine accessory drive belts sometimes do double duty. An alternator
belt may slip because the PS belt that also is supposed to help drive the
water pump and fan is not doing it's job.
I have found that there are some very compelling reasons to use Gates belts
and that, no, all belts are not equal.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 09:09:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300G California emissions package
It is indeed a "closed crankcase vent system" option
code 387, MSRP $5.20. It even appears on the
microfilm. Both my G coupes were California cars and
have it. It was available on any 1961 Chrysler and
I've seen at least one non-California 300G with it.
Incidentally, I've found the nipple on the balance
tube used in the system is a great place to plug in a
vacuum gauge for tuning your carbs. Another advantage
to having it.
Andy
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 13:19:50 -0400
From: GERALD OLSON <olson77@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: fuel pump pushrods
Bakers& Group. In January of this year, I bought this pushrod for $8
plus tax for a 440 rebuild.The part number from Mancini is P5249569.
Find them at custservice@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx or Detroit Preformance
Center, 33510 Groesbeck Hwy. Fraser,Mi.--586-294-0390. Hope this
helps. Jerry Olson
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 14:07:37 -0400
From: David R Geise <daverg@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 57 C Door Panel Inserts
Hi to All,
A few months back, I sent my aluminum door panel inserts to "The
Finishing Touch" in Chicago for
cleanup/refinishing. A few of you expressed an interest in the results.
The instructions I gave were to try
not to remove the pattern in the metal. They came back predictably
highly polished, which I could deal
with, but with all traces of the pattern removed. I was told beforehand
that if I wanted a dull or satin finish,
I could have them anodized, a service they did not offer.
When questioned about the pattern, I was told this came off early-on
in the polishing procedure because
it had been applied only to the surface at the factory. I had to agree
that had it been a stamping process,
it most certainly would have been able to be seen or felt from the
underside, which it wasn't.
I welcome your comments as to how this pattern was originally
applied and how it could be duplicated.
I posed this question to Gary G. as he at one time was trying to have
them reproduced and would be in a
position to know the process. I am assuming that these inserts are a
scarce commodity if a reproduction
project was in the works. Will relay any response from Gary to the
group.
Regards,
Dave Geise
57 C in NJ
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:12:02 +0000
From: "car man" <carbuyer02@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: question about tire pressure
does anyone know what the tire pressure sepose to be on my tires???
for my 1970 chrysler 300 with 440 engine
i told the guy and he put all my tires at 32psi ig to new tires . he says
it wears evenly but
my car well i know you are gonna be mad at this but i used to do 0-60 in
about 4 seconds now it like
0-60 in 7 seconds
there got to be sormething wrong
thank you for your help
shawn
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 11:21:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
Warren,
I agree that the bushing should be replaced when
rebuilding. In an already installed engine, I pull the
distributer, and check for excessive side play in the
shaft and pull it out and see if the shaft shows wear
just below the gear and if so, replace the shaft at
the same time the bushing is replaced and burnished. I
always replace the shaft with the heavy-duty Direct
Connection shaft. The hex end that drives the oil pump
is machined instead of a piece of hex stock pressed
into a hole on the lower end of the shaft which can
turn and cause oil pressure loss. The best thing to do
with the old shaft is grind all the teeth off the gear
so it can turn free without touching the camshaft gear
and use it to pre-lube the bearings without having to
turn the engine. A flat screwdriver chucked in a drill
to turn the oil pump the same rotation as the
distributer rotation marked on the intake manifold
untill the guage shows pressure
I don't do this on a fresh engine that I KNOW was
assembled with proper engine assembly lube, but if i'm
going to try to stsrt an engine that I don't know how
long since it has been run, I sometimes pre-lube to be
safe. I just hate to hear rods rattle until oil
pressure picks up.
--- Warren R Anderson <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
>
> >rocker arm shafts. The only oil supply to the
> rocker
> >arm shafts comes from the #4 cam bearing and is not
> >full pressure but is an intermitent supply as holes
> >drilled thru the camshaft journal line up with
> holes
> >in the cam bearing. Have the cam bearings been
> >replaced? If the holes in the bearing aren't lined
> up
> >with the holes in the block it can louse up the
> upper
> >end oiling. The chatter you hear could be rocker
> arms
> >rattling on the shaft instead of being cushioned by
> >oil.
>
>
> There is a short shaft between the distributor and
> the fuel pump. This shaft
> runs in a flanged bronze (?) bushing that is a press
> fit in the block (IMHO
> should always be replaced when engine is apart). It
> is not pressure
> lubricated. If lube oil flow is not properly
> directed in the upper valve
> train area, this bushing will fail. We have been out
> of town riding north of
> the Grand Canyon for the last 5 days so may have
> missed notes on this
> subject. The Merritt Message I did find otherwise
> covers it all very nicely.
>
> BTW Chrysler had some problems with this bushing in
> there SB V8's & possibly
> some V6's in Dakota applications just a few years
> ago.
>
> Warren Anderson
> Sedona,AZ
>
>
>
>
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Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 12:05:56 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300G California emissions package
Bob, Some engines had a Road Draft Tube that went to the valve cover and some went to the Valley Cover. The Draft tube pipe was cut off at an angle so when the car was moving it created suction which sucked the fumes out of the engine into the air.
California required that the engine be sealed by plugging up or removing the Draft tube. Then they put a oil breather cap that had a screen that let air flow through it., Then added a PCV Valve which was hooked to manifold vacuum usually to the carb or under using a spacer with a vacuum pipe to hook a vacuum hose to.. Now the gasses in the engine were sucked out of the engine crank case,
then back into the engine intake, mixed with fresh air and re-burnt.
I don't know if Chrysler had a system at that time. We usually had to by our parts from local parts hoses. Believe me it really helps clean up the inside of your engine. Those were the days that when you removed valve covers and coulden't even see the rockers and valve springsfor the sludge. I'm sure there is a way to put a system on a 300G.
What does a 300 J & K with the Ram engine use? They might have something you can use. Good Luck
Gary Barker
Bob Jasinski wrote:
> Is there any documentation that illustrates the emission package installed on California bound 300Gs ? I've been thinking of installing it on my G. When I'm idling in traffic, the emissions from the road tube are noticeable. Summer is here and I want to do some crusin' in as clean a runnin' machine as possible. Besides, my 10 year old daughter loves to ride but doesn't like the smell.
>
> In all the shows I've been to over the years, I don't think I've seen one on a '61 300G. Is there much to it? Any drawbacks?
>
> Bob J
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 15:27:17 -0400
From: "D'Aloise, Lawrence Jr." <ldaloise@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: question about tire pressure
0-60 in 4 seconds is supercar fast. You might have miscalculated your time
before you bought new tires. Assuming the tires are radials, lower the
pressure in the rear tires to about 20psi.& you should get better traction.
Of course, 20psi is too low for every day driving.
-----Original Message-----
From: car man [mailto:carbuyer02@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 2:12 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] question about tire pressure
does anyone know what the tire pressure sepose to be on my tires???
for my 1970 chrysler 300 with 440 engine
i told the guy and he put all my tires at 32psi ig to new tires . he says
it wears evenly but
my car well i know you are gonna be mad at this but i used to do 0-60 in
about 4 seconds now it like
0-60 in 7 seconds
there got to be sormething wrong
thank you for your help
shawn
_________________________________________________________________
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To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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For list server instructions, go to
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 14:52:48 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: question about tire pressure
"D'Aloise, Lawrence Jr." wrote:
>
> 0-60 in 4 seconds is supercar fast. You might have miscalculated your time
> before you bought new tires. Assuming the tires are radials, lower the
> pressure in the rear tires to about 20psi.& you should get better traction.
> Of course, 20psi is too low for every day driving.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: car man [mailto:carbuyer02@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 2:12 PM
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] question about tire pressure
> does anyone know what the tire pressure sepose to be on my tires???
> for my 1970 chrysler 300 with 440 engine
> i told the guy and he put all my tires at 32psi ig to new tires . he says
> it wears evenly but
> my car well i know you are gonna be mad at this but i used to do 0-60 in
> about 4 seconds now it like
> 0-60 in 7 seconds
> there got to be sormething wrong
> thank you for your help
> shawn
O-60 in 4 seconds in a C-body, what's the motor?????
What's the chassie setup??
Were you watching to speedometer to learn the 0-60 times, or
was this on the drag strip???
Uncommon tire slippage will through the speedo off,
But is tire slippage all that uncommon in a C-Body???
What you MIGHT be experiencing is much better traction with the new
tires now, and a truer speed measurment now.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 15:02:43 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300G California emissions package
G Barker wrote:
> I don't know if Chrysler had a system at that time. We usually
> had to by our parts from local parts houses.
> Gary Barker
I was shopping at a local parts house early last year and for a lark looked
in the earlier section of the Chrysler listing. I was surprised to see a
listing for a PCV valve for 1957. A little later I had a chance to see
a 1957 Imperial motor from California. IT had a Factory PCV setup on it.
Then an inquiry on the list confirmed that At least Cal. was beginning to
require pollution controls back then.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 14:42:27 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300G California emissions package
The first factory car I owned that came with a PCV was my 1944 Willys Jeep.
My 1955 Chrysler and my 1956 Ply. Fury both have Ca. first aftermarket PVC
system.
Gary Barker
paul holmgren wrote:
> G Barker wrote:
>
> > I don't know if Chrysler had a system at that time. We usually
> > had to by our parts from local parts houses.
>
> > Gary Barker
>
> I was shopping at a local parts house early last year and for a lark looked
> in the earlier section of the Chrysler listing. I was surprised to see a
> listing for a PCV valve for 1957. A little later I had a chance to see
> a 1957 Imperial motor from California. IT had a Factory PCV setup on it.
> Then an inquiry on the list confirmed that At least Cal. was beginning to
> require pollution controls back then.
>
> --
> Paul Holmgren
> Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
> 2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 22:12:48 -0000
From: "L.Andrew Jugle" <lajugle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sqealing belt on generator.
I had this problem bringing back the "Crime Story" 300C. The movie
people had grounded the field so output was max at all times. Since
car was never driven in production for more than a few minutes at a
time, there was no problem.
Check your wiring for reversed field and Bat wires. Then check that
regulator is polarized properly. The movie guys "de-polarized"
system in my case so the ammeter never showed any charge. I
discovered this after losing a generator in midst of Utah.....and
blowing another in Denver!!! The only clue I had, expost facto, was
all the interior lights were burned out, and the radio was fried. At
70 MPH those generators will put out about 30 volts at some 40 or 50
amps!!!
L. Andrew Jugle, Elmhurst,IL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 17:32:04 -0500
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
Bob,
I have done this also, but I never burnished the bearing since I don't have
a burnishing tool. What did you use to burnish the bearing, and is there
any down side to not doing the burnishing?
Bill Huff
I pull the
distributor, and check for excessive side play in the
shaft and pull it out and see if the shaft shows wear
just below the gear and if so, replace the shaft at
the same time the bushing is replaced and burnished.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 16:19:11 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: California emissions package
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx <john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx>;
rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thursday, May 29, 2003 4:56 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300G California emissions package
>A decent picture that shows the PCV system can be found at :
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/allaboutrams/jengine3.JPG
When CA put the retro sealed crankcase vent program into gear my C300 was
declared exempt. As I remember, the reason was the factory twin
carburetors. The PCV valve is a controlled vacuum leak. The C300 manifold is
set up in such a way that a central tap as shown in the Hertog post is not
available. I guess the state knew this or gave consideration to the low
production numbers for the car or - - - .
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 19:44:20 -0400
From: "Langendorfer" <langendorfer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300G California emissions package
Folks:
I did a science project on exhaust pollution and emissions control in
automobiles in Junior High (remember when it was called that?) on Long
Island in 8th or 9th grade, circa 1964. I sent letters and received personal
feedback from Chrysler, Ford, and GM (very nice personally typed and signed
responses to a kid, BTW - not sure that would happen now). If I recall
correctly, the National PCV requirement was in 1963 and California predated
it by 2 years, i.e. 1961 (or an option for non-CA cars as noted here).
This doesn't help with defining the configuration for a G, but perhaps the
timeline (as well as some Club Member trivia!).
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Mikonis" <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G California emissions package
> It is indeed a "closed crankcase vent system" option
> code 387, MSRP $5.20. It even appears on the
> microfilm. Both my G coupes were California cars and
> have it. It was available on any 1961 Chrysler and
> I've seen at least one non-California 300G with it.
>
> Incidentally, I've found the nipple on the balance
> tube used in the system is a great place to plug in a
> vacuum gauge for tuning your carbs. Another advantage
> to having it.
>
> Andy
>
> __________________________________
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> Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:06:59 -0700
From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: California emissions package
I graduated from a Southern California High School in 1959 and I remember that the dual carb cars from all manufacturers were exempt for awhile from smog stuff in California.
At that time, I was running 6 Stromberg 97's on a big V8. Geez, that was a long time ago.
I also seem to remember that some sports cars were converted to propane when they were imported to get around the smog regulations for awhile.
John Mc Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: Warren R Anderson [mailto:wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 4:19 PM
To: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx; rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx;
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; John Hertog
Subject: [Chrysler300] California emissions package
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx <john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx>;
rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thursday, May 29, 2003 4:56 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300G California emissions package
>A decent picture that shows the PCV system can be found at :
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/allaboutrams/jengine3.JPG
When CA put the retro sealed crankcase vent program into gear my C300 was
declared exempt. As I remember, the reason was the factory twin
carburetors. The PCV valve is a controlled vacuum leak. The C300 manifold is
set up in such a way that a central tap as shown in the Hertog post is not
available. I guess the state knew this or gave consideration to the low
production numbers for the car or - - - .
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:19:25 -0700
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: PCV valve
Thanks to all that responded to my question on road draft tube emissions and how to eliminate them. I am definitely going to look into installing the PCV valve as shown on page 127 of the manual (thanks John). I checked my balance tube and the port is there, it is just blocked off. Joe made a comment that rebuilding the engine was the best way to fix the problem, but there isn't a thing wrong with my engine. It has always done this while sitting and idling. Since there is no air movement over the draft tube, there is no vacuum present to pull off the fumes. That's why its called a positive crankcase ventilation system.
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:27:45 -0700
From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 300H Fuel problem - answer
As I read in my 1962 Factory Service manual, in the ENGINE section, under "DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHINGS". It says as follows:
__________________________________________________________
"INSTALLATION OF DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHINGS"
(1) Slide a new bushing over the burnishing end of Tool C-3053 and insert the tool bushing into the bore, as shown in Figure 35.
(2) Drive the bushing and tool into position, using a soft hammer.
(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing by tightening the puller nut, the bushing is expanded tight in the block and burnished to the correct size, as shown in figure 36. DO NOT REAM THIS BUSHING.
_____________________________________________________________
As for where to get this C-3053 tool, I haven't a clue. Perhaps Warren Anderson can tell us as he indicates that he burnishes them when he replaces them.
John Mc Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: William Huff [mailto:whuff@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 3:32 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - answer
Bob,
I have done this also, but I never burnished the bearing since I don't have
a burnishing tool. What did you use to burnish the bearing, and is there
any down side to not doing the burnishing?
Bill Huff
I pull the
distributor, and check for excessive side play in the
shaft and pull it out and see if the shaft shows wear
just below the gear and if so, replace the shaft at
the same time the bushing is replaced and burnished.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:55:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
Bill,
Over the years I have bought the specialty tools from
several dealerships that had gone out of business.Of
course a lot of the popular tools were missing but it
is amazing how many of the kits received in the later
years just before they went out hadn't even been
opened.
I haven't built an engine recently so I don't know for
sure where it is but will look thru my building and
see if I have duplicates. If I can find it I may be
able to duplicate it with my lathe, or at least
furnish exact measurements so other club members could
make their own.
Okie Bob
--- William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> I have done this also, but I never burnished the
> bearing since I don't have
> a burnishing tool. What did you use to burnish the
> bearing, and is there
> any down side to not doing the burnishing?
>
> Bill Huff
>
>
>
> I pull the
> distributor, and check for excessive side play in
> the
> shaft and pull it out and see if the shaft shows
> wear
> just below the gear and if so, replace the shaft at
> the same time the bushing is replaced and burnished.
>
>
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 21:08:41 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Flanged bushing burnishing tool
>I haven't built an engine recently so I don't know for
>sure where it is but will look thru my building and
>see if I have duplicates. If I can find it I may be
>able to duplicate it with my lathe, or at least
>furnish exact measurements so other club members could
>make their own.
SPX Corporation is the parent for Miller special service tools. This is
where the dealerships get their specialty tools. This is where Mr Merritt's
dealership tools were originally purchased from.
I went to one of my towers of tools and found our tools (and well before Mr
Merritt could find his I guess; RBG :o). Question is, do you know where your
tools are tonight?).
Our 2001 Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge Special Service Tools catalog shows the
installer set p/n as C-3053. The puller set is p/n C-3052.
www.miller.spx.com
Pointing out that with the engine out the puller is not needed. The
installer tool is always needed. The puller is a shaft thing with a long
threaded section and nut at one end and a very coarse pitch thread on the
other. A 1/2 -13 tap and bolt would substitute for the puller (yes, no;
haven't been there myself). Puller set comes with piloted puller plate.
Bushing driver tool comes with piloted plate and drawing nut used to pull
burnishing end through installed bushing. Burnishing end measures 0.4875 in
(which is two rounded lands). The two old 413 oil pump drive shafts I have
measure 0.485 in. Note: When Mr Merritt finds his burnisher we can then
debate the fourth decimal place above.
We want to remember about $25 dollar range for either tool probably about 4
yrs ago.
E-bay? We have netted some killer tool deals from that source - - - -. Hint.
HTH
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 21:08:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
Patrick,
Sorry I left this unexplained. The shaft that drives
both the distributer and the oil pump is itself turned
by a gear that meshes with a gear on the camshaft.
When I had a shaft worn where it runs in the bushing
and replace it with the heavy-duty shaft, instead of
trashing the worn unit I grind all the teeth off so it
can be slipped back thru the new bushing and the lower
end engaged with the oil pump. Then the slot that the
distributer shaft fits in is where the screwdriver is
used to turn only the shaft and oil pump, since the
gears are not there to mesh with the cam gear.By
turning the shaft in the direction it normally turns
the oil pump is the only part of the engine working.
When the oil guage shows pressure, you know the
bearings are pre-lubed and the engine will need to be
timed before the distributer is installed. The new
shaft with the teeth needs to be installed properly
according to the instructions in the shop manual. It
needs to be located and spiraled into place so that
the slot the distributer tang fits in is pointing
straight forward with the engine on top dead center on
the firing stroke on #1 cylinder. If you don't have a
shop manual, borrow one or get someone to zerox the
pages since this is critical to being able to time the
distributer correctly.
I hope I haven't confused the issue more: I'm sure if
you can get ahold of a shop manual and look at the
section on distributer timing, figure 35, page 9-21 in
my 63 book, you can figure out what I'm trying to say.
Okie Bob
--- patrick grant <gran102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> i dont quite follow you on the part about grinding
> off the gear teeth does this accomplish the same
> thing as the flat screwdriver to turn the oil pump
> only. i wish you lived next door to me because i can
> tell you really know your stuff. maybe a followup
> lesson to the group on having to turn the engine 180
> degrees to get both sides of the engine and how do
> you know the right spot to stop. just wait for
> oil pump to develop pressure??thanks, pat grant
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Robert Merritt
> To: Warren R Anderson
> Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 2:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem -
> answer
>
>
> Warren,
> I agree that the bushing should be replaced when
> rebuilding. In an already installed engine, I pull
> the
> distributer, and check for excessive side play in
> the
> shaft and pull it out and see if the shaft shows
> wear
> just below the gear and if so, replace the shaft
> at
> the same time the bushing is replaced and
> burnished. I
> always replace the shaft with the heavy-duty
> Direct
> Connection shaft. The hex end that drives the oil
> pump
> is machined instead of a piece of hex stock
> pressed
> into a hole on the lower end of the shaft which
> can
> turn and cause oil pressure loss. The best thing
> to do
> with the old shaft is grind all the teeth off the
> gear
> so it can turn free without touching the camshaft
> gear
> and use it to pre-lube the bearings without having
> to
> turn the engine. A flat screwdriver chucked in a
> drill
> to turn the oil pump the same rotation as the
> distributer rotation marked on the intake manifold
> untill the guage shows pressure
> I don't do this on a fresh engine that I KNOW was
> assembled with proper engine assembly lube, but if
> i'm
> going to try to stsrt an engine that I don't know
> how
> long since it has been run, I sometimes pre-lube
> to be
> safe. I just hate to hear rods rattle until oil
> pressure picks up.
> --- Warren R Anderson <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> >
> > >rocker arm shafts. The only oil supply to the
> > rocker
> > >arm shafts comes from the #4 cam bearing and is
> not
> > >full pressure but is an intermitent supply as
> holes
> > >drilled thru the camshaft journal line up with
> > holes
> > >in the cam bearing. Have the cam bearings been
> > >replaced? If the holes in the bearing aren't
> lined
> > up
> > >with the holes in the block it can louse up the
> > upper
> > >end oiling. The chatter you hear could be
> rocker
> > arms
> > >rattling on the shaft instead of being
> cushioned by
> > >oil.
> >
> >
> > There is a short shaft between the distributor
> and
> > the fuel pump. This shaft
> > runs in a flanged bronze (?) bushing that is a
> press
> > fit in the block (IMHO
> > should always be replaced when engine is apart).
> It
> > is not pressure
> > lubricated. If lube oil flow is not properly
> > directed in the upper valve
> > train area, this bushing will fail. We have been
> out
> > of town riding north of
> > the Grand Canyon for the last 5 days so may have
> > missed notes on this
> > subject. The Merritt Message I did find
> otherwise
> > covers it all very nicely.
> >
> > BTW Chrysler had some problems with this bushing
> in
> > there SB V8's & possibly
> > some V6's in Dakota applications just a few
> years
> > ago.
> >
> > Warren Anderson
> > Sedona,AZ
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 23:49:18 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
Robert Merritt wrote:
> Patrick,
> Sorry I left this unexplained. The shaft that drives
> both the distributer and the oil pump is itself turned
> by a gear that meshes with a gear on the camshaft.
snip
> The new shaft with the teeth needs to be installed properly
> according to the instructions in the shop manual. It
> needs to be located and spiraled into place so that
> the slot the distributer tang fits in is pointing
> straight forward with the engine on top dead center on
> the firing stroke on #1 cylinder. If you don't have a
> shop manual, borrow one or get someone to zerox the
> pages since this is critical to being able to time the
> distributer correctly.
snip
> Okie Bob
Humm, this is something I didn't do years ago. BUT what I did do
was to double check TDC, with Solid lifters this is easy to do
if you have done the timing chain right, and after everything
(mostly all buttoned up and ready for firing) was in place I
dropped the Dist. in place and installed the rotor.
Checked exactly which terminal of the cap it was closest to and
then rotated the Dist. Until the Rotor was dead center on a terminal.
That became #1 and I wired up the plug wires from that reference
(at least this is what the old tired brain cells recall).
THE ONLY mistake I made was to tighten up the Dist. hold down while
the motor was on the engine stand. Used a hand wrench.
When it came time to do the fine tuning, of course the 392 was in the
car by then, I couldn't get a long enough handled tool in there to
loosen the thing back up.
Yup, off to the tool place to buy the "correct" tool for this.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 00:57:28 -0500
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Flanged bushing burnishing tool
Thanks for the info Warren,
There aren't any on EBay right now, I wrote to Miller for a quote. I
hesitate to confess that I have put a couple of engines together without
the tool, simply using the old oil pump drive to tap the new bushing into
place. There seemed to be adequate clearance to the new drive shaft. What
is the down side of not doing the burnishing, so long as the shaft to
bushing clearance is sufficient?
Thanks,
Bill
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 21:08:41 -0700
From: Warren R Anderson <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Chrysler300] Flanged bushing burnishing tool
The installer tool is always needed.
Bushing driver tool comes with piloted plate and drawing nut used to pull
burnishing end through installed bushing. Burnishing end measures 0.4875 in
(which is two rounded lands). The two old 413 oil pump drive shafts I have
measure 0.485 in. Note: When Mr Merritt finds his burnisher we can
thendebate the fourth decimal place above.
We want to remember about $25 dollar range for either tool probably about 4
yrs ago.
E-bay? We have netted some killer tool deals from that source - - - -. Hint.
HTH
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
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