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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. 300F Brake Light Switch
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Header Paint
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Header Paint
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
4. 331 Heads
From: Hardy Graham Jr <hpgraham@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: 331 Heads
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: 331 Heads
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Product and company praise -Also, Air Conditioning repair
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Where's my former C300
From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re-Company Praise
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
10. axel end play on 300C
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: axel end play on 300C
From: Philippe COURANT <accf_clb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: car shows
From: Jeff Gretz <gretz@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. -Also, Air Conditioning repair
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. 300 Sport Coupe 1962.
From: ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx
15. 300 1962 Sport Coupe
From: ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx
16. Re: 300 Sport Coupe 1962.
From: "Jess" <jdmiklas@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:44:20 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300F Brake Light Switch
Hi Mark,
I have plenty of these in stock ; e-mail me privately. same with anyone
else who needs one or more.
John
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Club" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 2:30 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F Brake Light Switch
>
> Greetings 300 Club Members:
>
> The brake light switch on the master cylinder of my 1960 300F failed. The
part was special ordered from NAPA and came in as the wrong part. It turns
out NAPA does not have a listing for the part. Does any body have a part
number or an idea that might help?
>
> Thank you very much!
>
> Mark Schueller
> 300F
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:47:22 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Header Paint
Hi George, I have been using POR for many years. All you have to do on normal metal is
brush off the loose rust and apply the paint. Believe me when you use it on anything but
exhaust manifolds it will never come off or rust again. Moisture makes it harder. I did
not clean the lid of the can good enough one time, And the lid would never come off. I
had to cut the can open. I have used it to apply molding clips that are broken when you
can't find a replacement. I painted the exhaust manifolds on my 63 10 years ago with
out sand blasting and it is a daily driver. It is just now getting to the point they
need repainting. I believe sand blasting would extend the life time. But you have to
remember POR is a paint and with the manifolds getting so hot and then cold over the
years. Almost any coating will give up its cover .
Gary Barker
News4ge@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've been trying to find out if POR15 gray manifold paint is any good and if
> it can be used without totally cleaning off the rust. Apparently,
> sandblasting is required for long-lasting results. Since POR means "paint
> over rust", this is kind of misleading.
>
> Now my question, since sandblasting is necessary anyway, is "what kinds of
> header paint have you all used and what would you recommend"?
>
> Thanks,
>
> George Clineman
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:54:45 EDT
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Header Paint
POR-15 is just like any other coating in that the better the surface prep the
better the results. If you use the phosphate coating after a good bead
blasting you'll get good results. I use the High temp silver alot and you
need to make sure you get it heated to cure it. I use a heat gun if i'm not
going to fire up the motor. I've even used it inside my headers as a heat
reflector. Remember moisture from condensation can come from the inside out.
I have a Flathead that I used the silver High temp on the exhaust and the
silver paint on the motor and its just now starting to show need of a touch
up after 3 seasons of use. This motor was really bad cosmetically when I
coated it , so I'm happy with POR-15. I also like the Corrolless that
Eastwood sells for inner fender wells.
Brian
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:57:23 -0500
From: Hardy Graham Jr <hpgraham@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 331 Heads
Are all the Head components interchangable between the 331 and the 354? The
PAW "Early Chrysler Hemi" catalog lists many parts for the 354 but not he
331. Are valves, push rods, rocker arm assemblies, etc. interchangeable? I
have been told that the only significant differance is the bore size.
Thanks,
Hardy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:59:32 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 331 Heads
I hope there is somebody out there that knows more than me. But I do know that The
331 heads are different than the 354 but will interchange. You have to use the 331 water
pump and housing with the heads BUT there are aftermarket water pumps that can be use
too.. The early 331 heads use 1.81 & 1.5 valves but the late 331 heads use the 1.94 and
1.75 valves. Rocker assembles are interchangeable and so are the push rods. If I was
going to build a engine from interchangeable parts I would research them before I bought
them.
Gary Barker
Hardy Graham Jr. wrote:
> Are all the Head components interchangable between the 331 and the 354? The
> PAW "Early Chrysler Hemi" catalog lists many parts for the 354 but not he
> 331. Are valves, push rods, rocker arm assemblies, etc. interchangeable? I
> have been told that the only significant differance is the bore size.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Hardy
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:08:30 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 331 Heads
If you need to find out more on early hemi engines and parts contact Hot Heads.
WWW.hothemiheads.com and get one of there catalogs. Gary Barker
Hardy Graham Jr wrote:
> Are all the Head components interchangable between the 331 and the 354? The
> PAW "Early Chrysler Hemi" catalog lists many parts for the 354 but not he
> 331. Are valves, push rods, rocker arm assemblies, etc. interchangeable? I
> have been told that the only significant differance is the bore size.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Hardy
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:36:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Product and company praise -Also, Air Conditioning repair
Hi everyone,
There are a lot of great companies out there helping us restore and maintain our Brutes. Don Verity and I have discovered an exceptional one and I would like to share their name and products with you. I speak for myself, Don has had no input into this letter, but I am sure will add his individual opinion to mine in a separate email.
HTP Welding out of Arlington Heights, Illinois (1-800-USA-WELD) has gone out of their way to insure that, as a customer I purchased the appropriate product for my needs. Don and I both recently purchased the same model Plasma Cutter from them. Even though they have higher powered and more expensive models, they directed both of us, independently, to a less expensive model that was appropriate for our needs. Don has indicated to me his pleasure with the machine and I echo his sentiment. Don did have a problem with a helmet he purchased from HTP, I do not know the details, but he told me the resolution was taken care of in extrodinary fashon.
When a few more parts get sold, I will be in the market for a new MIG welder to replace the small unit I now have. >From everything I have seen, their units are made exceptionally well made and offer innovative features either not available or available only at extra cost on competitive models. If anyone is in the market for a new plasma cutter, welding machine or parts and supplies for their present unit, I urge you to get in touch with HTP welding. Their products and customer service are first rate.
While I have the soapbox, I would also like to make everyone aware of a new product marketed by NAPA for Air Conditioning leaks. It's from ETW and the order number is CLP 940 kit. It works with both R-12 and R-134 and stops leaks cold (pun intended). MY '95 LH New Yorker was subject to a recall that the former owner did not avail himself of. As a result, the cost to repair the non -functioning A/C in the car was over $800. I lived with no A/C for years, tolerable in the Northeast and liking $800 more than a cool breeze.
Seventeen year old daughter recently got her license and wouldn't be caught dead in the '77 New Yorker or anything else that I'd let her drive. Using Hondas for her crumple zone just doesn't impress kids like it used to. Wanting her to be as safe as possible with air bags, seat belts, disc brakes and all that modern stuff, she ended up with the '95. Of course, all day on a 90 degree beach is one thing, but once in the car - A/C is a MUST!! I have added 134 to the A/C system in the past, with leak stopping additives and it lasted about three days. I discovered the product while going through a NAPA flyer and decided to give it a try. Decidedly expensive at $38 for a few ounces, I recharged the '95's system with this and new R-134. It's been over a month and the system still works perfectly. Anyone out there that has an old Brute with A/C , but is tired of loosing expensive R-12 might seriously want to give this a try. If the leak isn't too big, like if cousin Billy Joe ventilated the condenser with a 12 gauge, this stuff will probably get your A/C working again without any of your R-12 leaving you.
300ly
Russ Vaughan
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:19:42 -0500
From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Where's my former C300
Amazing---think its in Kansas again. Saw it last year and took pictures.
Just a "little" tired looking and its available. Will send picture
separately.
Terry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Group" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 10:49 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Where's my former C300
> All,
>
> Anyone have or know of a red C300 with '56 headlight rims and '56 station
wagon taillight fins? Bought it in Wichita in '58; last known to be owned
by a fellow in AZ or NM in '60. Just curios to know if it's survived.
Sorry I don't have a VIN. (The original owner put the '56 fins on, so don't
blame me! LOL.)
>
> Park Waldrop
> Atlanta
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 09:48:19 -0700
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re-Company Praise
I would like to echo Russ's feelings about HTP. They have given me excellent customer service in the years that I have been using them. My first experience was when I bought an auto darkening welding helmet. They had a special going for $199 and I bought one. Only problem was it didn't work. I called them up and explained the problem, and they told me that they had bought a limited supply of those helmets and they were all out. Then he offered to send me another helmet that had more features and was listed as being over $100 more expensive, for no more than the one I had bought! I've had this helmet for a few years now and it works great! The plasma cutter that I recently bought more than delivers also. It's lighter than a full cooler and cuts 3/8 ths steel with ease. They come highly recommended from me and I will be doing business with them for some time.
300ly,
Don
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 07:25:00 -0700
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: axel end play on 300C
Someone was recently talking about this. I wasn't listening. I have 3 sources, 2 say the end play should be .013 to .018. and one source says .003 to .008. It appears that either two sources or one source is a typo. Anyone now which one is correct?
Thanks, Zak
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 17:00:20 +0200
From: Philippe COURANT <accf_clb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: axel end play on 300C
Here is the message from Owen:
There is a mis-print in the workshop manual, the rear axle end
play on your
'57, is .003"- 008" NOT .013-018". I just did my rear axle and
tryed to acheive between .003-.005" as things tend to loosen up
over time.
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)
Imperial 57 Crown convertible
Buick 58 Roadmaster sedan
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " :
http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 11:51:55 -0400
From: Jeff Gretz <gretz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: car shows
If anyone ever gets to the Portland, OR area in July (the best time to be
here!) you should plan on bringing your 300 to the Forest Grove Concours d'
Elegance http://www.forestgroveconcours.org/index.html They have two judged
Chrysler classes, Chrysler Cars 1950-1959 and Chrysler Cars 1960-1971. I've
taken my "G" there twice. It's the most prestigious Concours in the
Northwest so please come join us!
Jeff Gretz
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly Pierce [mailto:jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 9:08 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Charles Heinitz
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] car shows
I don't feel quite so bad about the turn out at our show last week end after
reading the latest from a few other members. It also appears that many
Letter car owners don't bring them out to "generic" type show- what a shame!
The Letter cars are so special that they attract a crowd of admiring people-
but maybe that is what keeps some away. I realize the value and rarity of
our cars and the time and dollars invested but the rare Brand X's and Fords
come out and It just gravels the tar out of me to hear the B.S, that flys
around at shows about the "rarity of this chivy or that Ford" when our cars
are the genuine article- Certified Milestone cars etc. etc. that the others
can't compare to. I love to drive our K, NOTHING we own compares to the
feeling or the thumbs up and looks from the 300M owners, as well as others
while cruising along. They were built to be driven! If carefully maintained
and watched over your investment in the Letter car will remain intact. It is
a darn shame to see a trailer queen never opened up on a good stretch of
highway. As for the speculator in the collectable car market- well I won't
say what I think, but it is still a free country.
On a lighter note- Our offer still stands to host a meet here in Montana,
either in Billings or nearby Red Lodge, the Northeast entrance to
Yellowstone Park. Get the brutes out for some wide open space touring and
some wide open throttle running! Come to Montana in August in Kalispell this
year and Billings for Cruzin' the Rims 2003 in July 2003! 850 Miles from
Seattle, same from Minneapolis, 530 from Denver, all a days run. Joe
Pierce.----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 8:53 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] car shows
>
>
> I went to the Mopar All Spring Roundup for the Seattle club this past
> spring. There was a 65 300 there and my 68 300. Here is the upside to the
> poor turnout,I got first place in my division. Chuck
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 09:21:34 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: -Also, Air Conditioning repair
>
>While I have the soapbox, I would also like to make everyone aware of a new
product marketed by NAPA for Air Conditioning leaks. It's from ETW and the
order number is CLP 940 kit. It works with both R-12 and R-134 and stops
leaks cold (pun intended). MY '95 LH New Yorker was subject to a recall
that the former owner did not avail himself of. As a result, the cost to
repair the non -functioning A/C in the car was over $800. I lived with no
A/C for years, tolerable in the Northeast and liking $800 more than a cool
breeze.
Chrysler LH cars have a leaky evaporator problem and dealers are supposed to
take care of the problem under warranty (some Mercedes has a similar probem;
tab for that one $3K+). Compressor O-rings also are a known leak source.
These seals are special and dealer only parts right now.
A/C stop leak will work with some types of leaks and from reports,
evaporator cores seems to be one of those applications. There are some
serious side effects that may or may not be mentioned in the literature. The
main problem that professional shops have noted is that the material will
turn to a gummy mess and plug up the system if moisture is present. The
refrigerant must be dry and free of non condensibles like air. What can
happen with a system that developes a leak is that the evaporator pressure
under a low system charge will pull down to less than atmospheric pressure
and moisture laden air will be introduced. If the system is not emptied and
evacuated to the proper level for an adequate time and then refilled with
dry refrigerant the system will be contaminated. There are other procedures
that have to be used in some cases to properly clear a system of non
condensibles.
Cars that we service are mostly from our dry southwest and moisture is not
the problem with this group that it is with cars from high humidity areas.
Stop leak will plug up refrigerant recycling machines. The initial cost of
these machines for a professional shop owner is in the thousands. The people
that manufacure these machines are reporting an alarming number of stop leak
plugged units being returned under warranty. I think if you check the RTI
site you should find a warranty disclaimer for such damage. If a
professional shop knows the stuff is in a system, he won't work on the
system. Working on a stop leak contaminated system is a big risk. Oh, by the
way, our expensive refrigerant identifiers that help us keep destructive
blended refrigerants out of our equipment will not detect stop leak
products.
Refrigerants do not get along with moisture. Some parts of R-134A do form
some really nasty items when they come into contact with moisture. R-12 is
easier to get along with in this regard.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ (dry; real dry)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 18:36:10 +0200
From: ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: 300 Sport Coupe 1962.
Hello, my 300 1962 was sold new in Switzerland, it would be nice to find
out the meaning of the ID-number. The tag reads as follow:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0
0 5 1 0 9 9 1 3 8 2 2
A B C D E F G H J K L M N O P Q R S T V W X Y Z
1 2 2 3 4 5 1 1 1 5
S O N U M B E R B D Y T R M P N T
0 5 1 0 9 9 1 3 8 2 2 4 5 5 W W 1
Maybe someone knows?
Sincerely Ivan/Sweden...
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 18:47:27 +0200
From: ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: 300 1962 Sport Coupe
Hi again, forget the last mail it did not turn out right, I try again.
My car was sold new in Switzerland, it would be nice to under stand the ID
Number, this is what the tag reads:
1234567890
0510 9913 822
ABCDEFGHJKLMNOPQRSTVWXYZ
12234 51 11 5
SO NUMBER BDY TRM PNT
0510 9913 822 455 WW1
Sincerely Ivan from Sweden...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 13:29:28 -0400
From: "Jess" <jdmiklas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300 Sport Coupe 1962.
Hi Ivan!
Here are some #'s to get you started. The man to contact is Karl Pippart. He
advertises in every CLUB NEWS.
Anyone with the missing codes please chime in!!
SO NUMBER = Scheduled production date - May 10th
Body # 9913 This will be stamped on
cowl behind heater box.
BODY 822 = Chrysler 300 2 Dr Coupe
TRM 455 = Bucket Seats Leather color 5
PNT WW1 = White body, white roof
G-1 = ?
H-2 = Automatic Transmission
J-2 = ?
K-3 = ?
L-4 = ?
Q-5 = Heater w/o Air Conditioner
R-1 = Rear window defogger (?)
V-1 = Sill Mouldings
W-1 = ?
Z-5 = Radio 7 Button w/Rear Speaker
Jeff Miklas
----- Original Message -----
From: <ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2002 12:36 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 Sport Coupe 1962.
> Hello, my 300 1962 was sold new in Switzerland, it would be nice to find
> out the meaning of the ID-number. The tag reads as follow:
>
> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0
> 0 5 1 0 9 9 1 3 8 2 2
>
> A B C D E F G H J K L M N O P Q R S T V W X Y Z
> 1 2 2 3 4 5 1 1 1 5
>
> S O N U M B E R B D Y T R M P N T
> 0 5 1 0 9 9 1 3 8 2 2 4 5 5 W W 1
>
> Maybe someone knows?
> Sincerely Ivan/Sweden...
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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