Re: {Chrysler 300} VIn Plate

Bob, I should clarify- I did this rivets install on a daily driver beater Sport Fury car, NOT my 300L. That car didn't get paint but I needed it reattached at the time. Plus someone had partially removed it already and bent/ creased it up.

I did this "glue only" version to a formula S Barracuda I owned in the past- I glued the plate and only used the rivets as tools to ALIGN the prefilled holes with the plate holes whilst the glue set. Every Mopar I've seen has holes in both the plate and the jamb, including this one. I did not crimp these rivets with the tool in any way. After the glue dried, I simply pulled out the rivets by hand and I had a factory appearance afterwards.That car was a show car that received paint in the door jambs so it had to be painted correctly. It had all of the provenance with it verifying it was a one owner non- tampered history.

I 100% agree that gluing is best if the plate has to come off. Tack welding it back the way the factory did this is impossible to do and look right, and while riveting is possible (with a proper state employed witness possibly and a notarized statement- this does exist) it would be a last resort out of functionality reasons only ( like so as not to lose a bent up or non flush fitting plate).

Plus it is up to the owner to outweigh risks against what is practical and allowable in their state of register. Research pays off- If I was buying a car and saw this condition on it but with rivets, I would simply look for more info elsewhere on the car like fender tags, other numbers elsewhere on the car, and the title info etc. Might even be a negotiating point. Really not a deal killer for me- if that data could determine a purchase if the car is properly restored and evidence is present as to why it was "tampered with". Again not saying it's ideal, but if the story involves a repaint and thus the plate got damaged or taken off and replaced, I would be ok if this action was documented at say the body shop doing the work... to each situation it's own.

From: 'Bob Jasinski' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2024 9:00:43 PM
To: 'James Douglas' <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} VIn Plate

James,

I would absolutely NOT drill holes and rivet the VIN back on. Instead I would carefully reattach it with epoxy (JB weld) or some adhesive to affix it as it was. If you were to rivet it back on, you will have to drill non-original holes, and use non-original rivets to secure it in place. Tampering with a VIN plate is a federal offence, and if a 300 expert gets involved and sees a riveted VIN plate they would say it was tampered with. As a consultant for the 300 Inc Club, if I got a call from someone telling me the VIN was riveted on I would tell them the VIN was tampered with and to stay away from any consideration of purchasing the car if it were offered for sale. Donâ€™t do it.

Bob J

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2024 3:26 PM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: {Chrysler 300} VIn Plate

I was working on the 300K the other day and my boot caught the plate on the driverâ€™s side door pillar. It came clean off. The factory spot welds were not too deep on this one.

So, since I do not have a spot welder, how would one put it back on. There are alignment holes in the door pillar as well as the plate. In fact the assembly manual shows to line up the holes and spot weld it just below on the inside of the holes.

My thoughts are:

Glue it down.
Screw it down.
Use type â€œUâ€? (round head) drive screws.

Anyone want to chime in? James.

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