Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Thanks Rick. The auto electrician is half a mile away hopefully as there is no power inside the car it'll be ok. I just tried another ignition switch and no cigar. I'll bet it's the plug cheers
Mike

On Mon, Nov 18, 2024, 6:33 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Watch for smell of burning insulation or other plastic, or irregular action of ammeter. Be prepared to put out an under hood and/or under dash fire and be ready to quickly remove one of the battery cables—preferably the ground cable. And those cables could be hot so carry gloves.

Best wishes, mate.

Rich

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Michael Van der veen
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 11:19 PM
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler list server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Hi Rich,
I've pulled the connections and cleaned what I can but the red and black have slightly melted the plastic but can still be re connected. This is prob the issue. I can hot wire the car to get it to run. I'm planning to take it to the auto electrician on tue wed or Thurs this week

On Mon, Nov 18, 2024, 6:10 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Mike:
Mate, you may have a really unsafe situation here. Power to the courtesy lamps comes direct from the alternator, via the bulkhead connector. At a junction point, wire R6 becomes R6A and attaches to the ALT stud on the ammeter. Other power flows from the junction to the Light Switch, Starter Switch, and to the “TAIL-STOP” & “CIGAR” fuses. If the engine is not running, all these loads will draw power backflow from the battery at the starter relay through the bulkhead connector and Ammeter and this is normal. If you are not getting power to the starter switch, lights, courtesy lamps, stop lamps, power seat(s), windows and top motor if any & etc., you may have a bad connection at the bulkhead which can lead to heat, melted bulkhead connector, melted insulation on the big red and black wires, short circuiting, smoke & destruction. Don’t ask me how I know. Too many ’64 MoPars have burnt to the ground because of a corroded, high-resistance joint in a marginally designed 1964 one-size fits all bulkhead connector. Of course, corroded/loose battery terminal(s) and/or a loose connection at the starter relay or the ammeter could be the simple solutions. Rarely, The low resistance component of the Ammeter could be burnt out or failed. This would prevent backflow of power from the battery.

Pleas pull the two eight-wire connectors from the under-hood side of the bulkhead connector and examine them for obvious corrosion or signs of overheating of insulation on wires or the bulkhead connector itself.   And then let us know you have solved the problem before your car’s electrical system failed the smoke test.

See pages 98,99 & 101 at http://www.jholst.net/64-service-manual/electrical.pdf for wiring diagrams or go direct to: http://www.jholst.net/wiring/wiring.pdf

Keep calm and carry on. She’ll be right, mate.

Rich Barber
Brentwood CA
1964 300K conv.

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Michael Van der veen
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 8:17 PM
To: Chrysler list server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Hi all,
I've been test driving the silver turquoise 300k around and trying to iron out some running issues. So after driving around for a couple of hrs it cut out and I couldn't start it via the key. I know there can be issues with the bulkhead connector, there is no power to the ignition switch and no console light comes on when you open the door. No fuses are blown and you can start the car by bridging the terminals on the starter relay and connecting the coil to the battery. When you do this the car will run and drive and lights in the console work when you open the door. The ignition switch still won't work. The car has 42k miles on it and alot of electrical parts have been replaced. Does anyone have any ideas besides the bulkhead connector?
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide
Cheers,
Mike approaching summer heat, in Australia
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